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#13546 - 05/03/11 11:56 AM Protecting the Final 400
Burchey
Unregistered


Hey Climbers,

For those of you that have done it/seen it - what's the story on setting up protection on the final 400?

I'd rather not carry too much extra up. I'll most likely be leading free to the limit of my 30m rope, setting up an anchor, and my 2nd follows up to the anchor - most likely not setting points in between. I'm guessing 7 or so pitches of this if we're looking at ~45 degree approach.

Couple pitons and nuts with some slings? Don't own any pickets, and my guess is the conditions don't warrant them anyway. If anything I'll plunge both axes and belay off that. Any fall the 2nd might take wouldn't be that much force, as long as I don't let 30 feet of slack build up like an idiot.

Any insight would be appreciated.

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#13556 - 05/03/11 03:15 PM Re: Protecting the Final 400 [Re: ]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 7740
Loc: Fresno, CA
After your last trip, I think you might do ok without all the above:

Mountaineers Route, Final 400 chute videos

On the other hand, if you are going while it is still iced up, then more protection might be better. You'd likely do fine following Bob H's route in the videos, since there shouldn't be any snow or ice there.

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#13558 - 05/03/11 04:33 PM Re: Protecting the Final 400 [Re: Steve C]
Burchey
Unregistered


Steve, great videos man, thanks for taking the time to dig those up for me. I know it will look slightly different with current snow/ice, but that gives me a great idea of the route itself - looks like plenty of opportunity for crack placements and slings. ( trip planned for weekend of May 21st )

The protection was really in case my buddy wanted it. I haven't climbed with him before, and I wanted to provide a little peace of mind if he wanted it. I think he's turned back at the notch a couple times before. He may not even need/desire to be roped in at all, but I'm going to carry it with me anyway. It looks like what I had in mind would be the gear I'd need.

I love Bob's style on those blocks, we may end up heading that way. It all depends on the conditions of the snow/ice.

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#13566 - 05/04/11 05:07 AM Re: Protecting the Final 400 [Re: Steve C]
Bulldog34 Offline


Registered: 11/12/09
Posts: 1255
Loc: Atlanta
I'd forgotten about those vids you took last year Steve - really good stuff! Best video representation I've seen of scaling the Final 400. Did you ever edit clips of the E-ledges? I don't recall seeing those posted.

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#13567 - 05/04/11 06:43 AM Re: Protecting the Final 400 [Re: Bulldog34]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 7740
Loc: Fresno, CA
Yes, they're there:

This thread contains Parts 1-5.  Here are the parts:

Part 1 is the first four video clips showing the use trail where it leaves the Main Trail, up to the point where one can either cross to the south side of the North Fork L.P. Creek or continue up Bob R's North Side shortcut route.

Part 2:  Eight videos showing the North Side route, with the last one showing where the south-side route reconnects.

Part 3:  Five videos showing the Ebersbacher Ledges.

Part 4:  Three videos, Lower Boyscout Lake section.

Part 5:  Five videos, Granite slabs to Upper Boyscout Lake.

In a separate thread:   Upper Boy Scout to the Notch.

I recently updated the Final 400 set showing the time each clip was taken. It only took 30 minutes on that stretch.

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#13569 - 05/04/11 07:12 AM Re: Protecting the Final 400 [Re: Steve C]
James Offline


Registered: 02/20/10
Posts: 66
Loc: CA
Nice videos, thanks for sharing. The e-ear must have been fun while videotaping.

Any recent reports of that section lately? Curious if the recent heat has made the south side a soggy crossing.

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#13570 - 05/04/11 07:30 AM Re: Protecting the Final 400 [Re: James]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 7740
Loc: Fresno, CA
> The e-ear must have been fun while videotaping.

Yeah. Videos NS6 and NS7 show it. Near the end in NS6, you can see me switching hands on the camera as I approach the elephant ear. NS7 begins as I go up and over it. I think I was dangling a hiking pole and holding the camera in the left hand, using the right hand to lean on the face. Fun stuff smirk


I've not seen any reports on the North Fork lately. But I would guess it is pretty rotten right now -- crossing the creek would be a mess with snow to the banks, then a drop into the water, then snow on the other side. I'd bet the North Side route would be better -- snow in the shadows of the trees, but none up on the granite.

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#13573 - 05/04/11 07:41 AM Re: Protecting the Final 400 [Re: Steve C]
James Offline


Registered: 02/20/10
Posts: 66
Loc: CA
Thanks. That section will likely be not just soggy but hot in the next few days. Heading up soon, should be fun!

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#13577 - 05/04/11 07:53 AM Re: Protecting the Final 400 [Re: James]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 7740
Loc: Fresno, CA
We NEED pictures! smile

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