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#27222 - 08/25/12 11:57 AM One last MR advice
quillansculpture Offline


Registered: 11/13/09
Posts: 552
Loc: Murrieta, CA

Planning on attempting the MR in the morning on Wednesday. Sunrise is at 6:21 AM, Sunset 7:25 PM, so thinking we should leave the trailhead by about 5:00 AM. We are going down the Main Trail.

Since it's our first time and it will take us some time to figure out what "stay to the left" means on both the chute and the final 400.

Any thoughts?
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#27238 - 08/25/12 09:53 PM Re: One last MR advice [Re: quillansculpture]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 6831
Loc: Fresno, CA
In the final 400, many people cross over to the right about half way up. Rocks on the right offer good "steps" and holds, so look them over, and go if it looks good.

Below is Bob R's picture titled "Routes I've done above The Notch". Note the second main line (counting from the left) of the 5 main lines. I like the upper part of that one to top out.

And do understand, this picture was taken from the air. When you are on the route, it does NOT look as steep as that. So not nearly as intimidating.


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#27248 - 08/26/12 09:37 AM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Steve C]
quillansculpture Offline


Registered: 11/13/09
Posts: 552
Loc: Murrieta, CA
I printed this one out. Thanks Steve.....
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"Turtles, Frogs & other Environmental Sculpture"

www.quillansculpturegallery.com
twitter: @josephquillan

If less is more, imagine how much more, more is -Frasier

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#27250 - 08/26/12 10:15 AM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Steve C]
Bob R Offline


Registered: 10/27/09
Posts: 129
Loc: Ridgecrest, California
And, what I claim is the easiest of the bunch. Virtually free of looseness, as well:

Easiest of routes above The Notch

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#27252 - 08/26/12 10:38 AM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Bob R]
Akichow Offline


Registered: 04/07/10
Posts: 659
Loc: SF Bay Area
I get serious vertigo just looking at this picture. Wow.

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#27253 - 08/26/12 11:33 AM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Akichow]
Harvey Lankford Offline


Registered: 11/10/09
Posts: 926
Loc: Richmond, Virginia
I went up and down guided by SP Parker in 2006 and we seemed to diagonal all the way, very easy, so none of those lines seem to indicate our route. Anyone have info on that? Harvey

Steve explained this in his post above, thanks. Any lines drawn?

edit:
pic shows diagonalling up and over to right on ascending ledges




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#27256 - 08/26/12 12:31 PM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Harvey Lankford]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 6831
Loc: Fresno, CA
Harvey, it looks similar to the top of Bob R's easiest route.

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#27259 - 08/26/12 04:14 PM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Steve C]
Harvey Lankford Offline


Registered: 11/10/09
Posts: 926
Loc: Richmond, Virginia
Steve, other than taking the left turn from the notch and climbing maybe 10 feet up, it seemed like we angled way over from that first chute to perhaps several chutes over, further over than Bob's red line, I'd say maybe all the way to the fourth blue line. We really, really diagonalled over.

As famous Victorian climber AF Mummery said, "an easy day for a lady"
sorry Karin, I'm just quoting the quote.



Edited by Harvey Lankford (08/26/12 04:19 PM)

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#27261 - 08/26/12 04:21 PM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Harvey Lankford]
MooseTracks Offline


Registered: 11/02/09
Posts: 582
Loc: Bishop, CA, United States
Bottom line, Joe, just look at everything, see what feels right, and go for it.

Everyone here can say til the cows come home just how to "get up it" but you don't know exactly what to do until you get there.

Take your time, be safe, use your head. Good luck!

-L
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#27272 - 08/26/12 09:22 PM Re: One last MR advice [Re: MooseTracks]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 6831
Loc: Fresno, CA
While we're talking about the top of the Final 400, can anyone point out where Richard P's favorite finish is that he says Wayne Pyle showed him, which he calls "Wayne's Chimney"?

Link: Exiting Wayne's Chimney.


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#27289 - 08/27/12 01:13 PM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Steve C]
Harvey Lankford Offline


Registered: 11/10/09
Posts: 926
Loc: Richmond, Virginia
Originally Posted By: Steve C
While we're talking about the top of the Final 400, can anyone point out where Richard P's favorite finish is that he says Wayne Pyle showed him, which he calls "Wayne's Chimney"?


yep, that's it. Here is my friend Roland backing down it. All I can say is that the Arctic drainage paternoster lakes are way down below, but it would be nice to have the route-options-picture with-all-the-blue-lines-on-it have a star where the chimney is. Judging by Steve's picture with what I think is the notch gendarme showing, it looks like Wayne's Chimney is not as far over west as I recollected (I have only been up once)



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#27290 - 08/27/12 01:19 PM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Harvey Lankford]
CMC2 Offline


Registered: 11/04/09
Posts: 160
Loc: CO
Richard P can you please mark the site on Bob R's blue lined routes of the final 400'. I am sure Harvey and I are not the only ones who are not sure where it is located on the picture, but Harvey of course has actually been there and I haven't as Bob R took us slightly further East I believe.

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#27291 - 08/27/12 01:23 PM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Harvey Lankford]
sierragator Offline


Registered: 01/12/10
Posts: 17
Loc: CA
Wayne's Chimney is at the top of the right hand ascent of the final 400 (the first chute as you bear left at the notch). As you approach it from below the entrance to it is under a large overhanging rock. It is a narrow opening between the overhanging rock and a wall to its right.

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#27297 - 08/27/12 03:55 PM Re: One last MR advice [Re: sierragator]
Harvey Lankford Offline


Registered: 11/10/09
Posts: 926
Loc: Richmond, Virginia
Originally Posted By: sierragator
As you approach it from below the entrance to it is under a large overhanging rock. It is a narrow opening between the overhanging rock and a wall to its right.


is that the overhanging rock?
at the very top-my picture posted above at
#27253 - 08/26/12

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#27336 - 08/29/12 08:15 AM Re: One last MR advice [Re: quillansculpture]
John Sims Offline


Registered: 04/20/12
Posts: 489
Loc: Sunnyvale, California
I have a question about an earlier portion of the MR. Based on looking at videos and photos I think there are two primary ways to get to the Ebersbacher ledges. One path turns south, crosses to the south side of the NFLPC, proceeds up the creek, and crosses again to the North side of the NFLPC. The other path proceeds up against the wall, and includes a narrow ledge to cross, passes "the Elephant's Ear", and then joins the other route near the beginning of the ledges.
1. Is this correct?
2. Why one vs the other?
Thanks,
John


Edited by John Sims (08/29/12 08:17 AM)

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#27338 - 08/29/12 08:37 AM Re: One last MR advice [Re: John Sims]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 6831
Loc: Fresno, CA
The south side of the creek is easier, no exposure. But it has two creek crossings. Especially early summer when the creek is high, those aren't very easy. At the upper crossing the creek follows the "trail" so people are hard pressed to find anyplace dry to step. Late summer that isn't such a problem.

The northern route involves some exposure, but is more direct, and without the problems with the creek.

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#27342 - 08/29/12 12:16 PM Re: One last MR advice [Re: Steve C]
John Sims Offline


Registered: 04/20/12
Posts: 489
Loc: Sunnyvale, California
Originally Posted By: Steve C
The south side of the creek is easier, no exposure. But it has two creek crossings. Especially early summer when the creek is high, those aren't very easy. At the upper crossing the creek follows the "trail" so people are hard pressed to find anyplace dry to step. Late summer that isn't such a problem.

The northern route involves some exposure, but is more direct, and without the problems with the creek.


Thanks Steve,
So, I'm guessing that there is no advantage of one route over the other for either distance of time. Would this be correct?

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#27370 - 08/30/12 10:12 AM Re: One last MR advice [Re: John Sims]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 6831
Loc: Fresno, CA
If walking on the ledge doesn't bother you, the north side is probably shorter, and slightly less time. But only by an insignificant amount. It definitely has a more "mountaineering" feel to it.


I think a party could split up, with half going south, and the other staying on the north side, and they would likely re-join at the E. Ledges.


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#27380 - 08/30/12 07:55 PM Re: One last MR advice - Completed!!! [Re: MooseTracks]
quillansculpture Offline


Registered: 11/13/09
Posts: 552
Loc: Murrieta, CA
Laura, A trip report is to follow, but just a short.
My kids, Cy and Kaleb, my friend DJ and his son, and I finished the MR in 8 hrs, 20 minutes.
Laura, no $hi%! I looked at every map, every log, every report as well as pics, but when I got to the chute.....none of it made sense. When I got to the final 400, The image helped a lot, and I checked for cairns as well as any sign people when up that way. The main thing for me, after I panicked for about 2 minutes, was.... I have my kids and I am now the leader. I will get them up this fricken wall. And, I did :-)
Longer report later. Thanks to everybody who helped and supported us "newbies". We are newbies no more.
_________________________
"Turtles, Frogs & other Environmental Sculpture"

www.quillansculpturegallery.com
twitter: @josephquillan

If less is more, imagine how much more, more is -Frasier

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