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Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
#29099 11/12/12 10:31 PM
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nyker Offline OP
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Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.

I summited Whitney yesterday (Sunday, Nov 11) as a oneday hike from the trailhead on the Main Trail.

Some thoughts for those going up over the next few days.

Temperature - The weather is warming, but it was cold this past weekend when the storm and cold front moved in.
While my car was parked in Lone Pine, the water bottles froze in the back seat over night. This would imply a low temp of low-mid teens
at the Portal trailhead not correcting for windchill. This may not apply for the upcoming days when temps will
be warmer, but I needed most layers I carried with me and added another warm layer on rest stops, hiking in four
layers most of the way. Warm gloves and liners, Goggles, face/neck protection were also needed as were
thermal pants and a shell for the wind. Factor this all in as it adds weight to your pack. You will feel the cold
on that early start. I started at 2:45AM and was waiting for sunrise every minute!

Water - Water is frozen at Trail Camp and most spots the mile before reaching TC; the last water available I recall
was along the trail around Outpost Camp; I heard water running under snow and ice further up which might
also be gotten if you can get through the ice. Keep in mind I didn't go look for water and assumed I'd
need to carry it all, so I did, so with some searching, you may find some higher up. Before I went up, I was
told the ice was too thick to chop throught at TC - I didn't check this, however.

Given the lack of water, unless you have the time and desire
to melt snow (as a dayhiker), you will need to carry most or all of your water. This will also add a lot
of weight to your pack. If you're camping overnight, then just melt snow at TC or if you are camping at Outpost
then the water is closeby. Snow was blown and drifted in
spots, but no more and 6-12" deep in most spots at Trail Camp, with many spots for a tent.

Traction - I used crampons and would advise anyone going up to bring them, as most of the switchbacks
from the cables up are packed with snow and ice, with the dozen or so before the cables also snow
covered but will less severe consequences in the event of a fall. Some people had yaktraks and microspikes-
I never used them so cannot comment on their usefulness, figuring this was one instance, I don't want
to skimp on ounces. G-12s are probably overkill, but that's what I brought and used them, and honestly
they give me more comfort and confidence in walking on dicey terrain, which is what matters.
Trekking poles also will help. I don't think an axe would be useful. I had mine, but it stayed my pack, as
I didn't feel there enough snow to warrant its use and enable a self arrest in the event of a slide.
Most of all, walk slowly on the icy parts of the trail, a lot of the ice is not evident.

Trail conditions:
Trail clear up to about 10,000ft where small patches of snow and ice start appearing;
Above 10,000, ice and packed snow are on trail in more spots. The higher you go, the more
ice you will see. Some of this ice is under a thin coating of snow and you won't see it making
falling probable (speaking from experience!) Walk carefully. For those of you who have not been on this
trail, pay attention around the 11-11,500 mark where the trail is tougher to follow in a few sections.

Most switchbacks are snowcovered. While lower down you can get by with no traction, it can't hurt to use some,
since you will want it anyway higher up.

From Trail Crest to the back over the ups and downs thereafter as you enter the National Park,
there is intermittent snow and ice, some of which you will want traction on.
After these junction spots to where the route finally gains the remaining elevation to the summit,
there is patchy snow on the trail to the top but doable without traction here; Icier in cooler conditions.
I would say traction is helpful until this point, where
you can take it off on the rockier spots for the last 1-1.5 miles to the top

Creatures - I saw two deer lower down, but saw no bears, mountain lions or bigfoot.

Portal Road - I saw some small bowling ball sized rocks tumble down, which you should be mindful of
when driving up. Road was otherwise clear with no ice or snow on it.


Closing thoughts - comparing this to my earlier summer/autumn day hike trips, or even the Spring snowclimb this past
May, this hike was brutal since I carried all my fluids (7L - yes I drink a lot), several more clothing layers,
and winter gear, which made for a HEAVY pack to hike 22 miles with.

Good luck if you are heading up!

Re: Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
nyker #29119 11/14/12 12:09 AM
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Excellent trip report, thank you.

Re: Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
nyker #29124 11/14/12 09:57 AM
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Did you happen to run into anyone at the summit who had come up the Mountaineers route or talk to anyone else with any knowledge of it's conditions?

Re: Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
Dave Alden #29129 11/14/12 02:40 PM
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Hi Dave,

No, I didn't see anyone who had summited via the MR.

I spoke to the Ranger the prior day and he said a few people planned to go up the MR on Sat and Sunday and gotten permits. From what I understood, there was loose snow and ice on many sections from Iceberg Lake up including the final 400. Given the snow/ice conditions, I opted to do the Main Trail, where such snow and ice has less severe consequences.

I actually only saw one other person that I knew summited that day, with 2-3 other possible summiters all from the Main Trail as far as I could tell. There were 6-7 other people who I saw hiking up, but I didn't see them after 11-12k, so assume they turned around or were planning something else.


Re: Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
nyker #29131 11/14/12 03:00 PM
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Thanks for the Great info on your trip. I am a rookie, can you tell me How long it took you to get to the top in hours & how many hours back down? Thanks Jim

Re: Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
Toyman13 #29132 11/14/12 05:16 PM
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Sure Toyman,

In my last three summits:

Sept 2011: conditions: Dry, temps: warm/moderate- wore 2 layers, got water along trail carried 2ish L:
ascent time: 7hrs, total time 12.5hrs,

May 2012: conditions: snow climb from ~11k, solid consolidated snow, little or no ice;.temps cool: 2/3 hiking layers got most water along trail carried 3-4: ascent time 8.5hrs, total time 14hrs.

Nov 2012 conditions: snow from 12k with crampons on from mid switchbacks, unconsolidated snow and ice in most spots, VERY COLD with 5 layers, carried all 7L water from start:
ascent: ~11hrs, 17hrs total time

Re: Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
nyker #29157 11/16/12 06:21 AM
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Here are some photos of the Main Trail from Sunday 11/11/12.

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=13143

Re: Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
nyker #29162 11/16/12 05:52 PM
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Started up the trail at midnight Wednesday, Nov. 7. Overnighted Thursday, Nov. 8. Went to Trail Crest but did not summit because I had a headache. (Had it before the trip, actually).

Went back Friday night/Saturday morning at midnight, Nov. 10. Wind was tough, about 50 knots. Piled rocks on my tent pegs. Slept an hour in the tent and then headed for the summit at 6:00 a.m. Got back to the tent about two hours after dark. Overnighted Saturday. Very cold weather. I saw three hikers who turned back on Saturday. Lonesome on the trail by myself after that.

1. There was running water below Trail Camp in the little meadow Saturday morning. You do have to look for it.
2. Icy conditions and hard blowing snow with a near white-out in the upper reaches of the mountains during the day Saturday... beautiful and dangerous, especially on the switchbacks.
3. Used Stabilicer cleats screwed directly into my boot lugs.
4. Something more substantial than Stabilicers would have been nice for the upper half of the Switchbacks. Ice extended to the edge of the trail, or almost to the edge but was obscured by the blowing snow.
5. Water partly froze in my bottles which were under my jacket.
6. Lost my face cover. Had to place a gloved hand over my mouth and chin for protection from the cold wind. Used Chapstick on my face for added protection.
7. I was toasty warm at night in my Goose Down long underwear while sleeping on an Expedition Down Mat and inside a Down sleeping bag.
8. Used a Sawyer water filter screwed to a cola bottle. (Cola bottles do not leak).
9. My pack weighed 18 lbs, plus water. I never carried more than two liters at any time.
10. Wore one layer of Capilene under my extra long London Fog jacket and wore two layers of polypro under my insulated snow pants. Have dual zippers on each leg and kept the zippers down most of the time to let off sweat.
11. My camera would take only one pic at a time and would then shut down due to "low battery."
12. I'll try to include some pics after I get them downloaded.
13. A young couple left out behind me on Saturday morning for the Mountaineer's Route.

BamaFireman Jesse

Re: Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
BamaFireman #29163 11/16/12 06:31 PM
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Wow, brutal conditions! Glad you made it ok. Looking forward to your pictures.

Thanks for reporting back.

Re: Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
Steve C #29175 11/17/12 05:55 PM
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So flip flops are probably a no-go at this time?

Seriously though, nice trip report. I did the trip in late June but am itching a trip like yours one of these years! Congrats!

Trip report - Main Trail, Nov 10, 2012, overnight.
jondotcom #29179 11/17/12 10:29 PM
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Thanks jondotcom.

I really enjoyed the opportunity to hike and camp in the cold. It made the trip worthwhile. I did consider hiking in my sandals a few days earlier.


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