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Mt. Whitney late spring
#31079 04/25/13 02:36 PM
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My friend and I lucked out and were able to get passes for Mt Whitney May 19 and 20th without using the lottery. At first I was super excited but then I started to wonder why the dates were not taken. I then realized that there is normally still quite a bit of snow the end of may. My friend and I are infantry Marines so were are used to long difficult hikes and we have both been avid outdoorsmen our whole lives, so the backpacking will not be a problem, I am only worried about the snow. I have several questions. First, I have read that ice axes and crampons are necessary is this true? Second, there is an REI class on mountaineering before the trip do you all think that it is necessary to take it. It covers ice axe and crampon use, rope team techniques, and self arrest. Any advice would be helpful.


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Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
artos #31081 04/25/13 05:02 PM
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Artos,

First off, my hat off to you for serving in our armed forces, thank you for your service.

Take the Mountaineering class, you have nothing to lose and all to gain, especially if you're not all that familiar with snow travel on a mountain.

I would say you will likely need crampons or microspikes at least in mid-late May. The switchbacks will more than likely be packed snow or ice then even if not much snow is around elsewhere to contend with. Most of the switchbacks are not that steep, but a slip and fall here could ruin your day or worse. A axe would also likely be a good idea, especially if you opt to ascend via the "chute", the slope to the west of the switchbacks. But...if you are climbing in conditions that warrant their use, you are best served to become familiar with them for your own safety.

As far as what conditions will be like in three+ weeks, it's anyone's guess if a late season storm will dump some more snow, but it appears to be shaping up to be a lighter snow year in the Sierras, others can comment in more detail on that.

Where are you coming from? If you live at sea level, you should become familiar with how your body reacts at higher altitudes. While the main trail is "easy class 1" it spends a lot of time above 12,000ft.

Last year, I climbed Whitney on the Main Trail on May 12: below is a trip report with some photos to give you an idea of conditions then.

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=11767&parmuser=nyker&cpgm=tripuser

For a shot of what the switchbacks looks like in lighter snow, see the photos below from my trip in November.

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=13143&parmuser=nyker&cpgm=tripuser

Good luck!

Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
nyker #31082 04/25/13 06:53 PM
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Thanks for the support it means a lot. Also you are right I don't have any thing to loose by taking the class. I live at sea level but my wife and I hike over glens pass this fall, which is just under 12k and i experienced no symptoms of altitude sickness. We will be conducting the hike in 2 days, staying 1 night at trail camp hopefully that will help. Looking at your trail report also helped a lot it is very similar to my february trip to the grand canyon. as far as how the trails looked


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Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
artos #31084 04/25/13 11:40 PM
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Artos, familiarize yourself with the symptoms of altitude sickness. It can be as little as a light headache and no appetite, or it can be way worse to the point you need to turn around. You won't know until you go. Lots of people are fine at 12k, but it gets worse pretty fast above that. ...or maybe not.

Just read up on it, so you know about it.

Being it is a light snow year, you might be just fine. Go for it!

Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
artos #31100 04/28/13 06:41 AM
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It is a light snow year, not a no snow year.

In SoCal, the only place where I can make a comparison, the melt is about 3 weeks ahead of last year. Last year, I was doing this in the snow into mid-April. This year I was done in late March.

This is for all May permit holders...

You need basic snow skills, ice axe and crampons until cables are forced and there is a trail put in to Trail Crest. That could be in mid to late May this year but certainly by early June.

Most who rent tools to go up the chute live to talk about the experience. However, if you make a mistake and don't have the skills to belay or arrest a fall or stop an out of control glissade, chances are you will be visiting Southern Inyo Hospital. Of course, I have been told by many with little or no skills, they don't fall...if I heard this once over the years I have heard it twenty times. My experience tells me falls happen and being able to belay or arrest are helpful skills to have.

Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
wbtravis #31112 04/29/13 02:06 PM
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So in light of the advice given to me by the forum, I have decided I will take the mountaineering class on sat. I am also extending the trip to 3 days staying the first night at lone pine lake 2nd night at trail camp and out on the 3rd day in order to mitigate altitude sickness. Thanks for the advice and any thing else would be helpful.


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Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
artos #31115 04/29/13 03:43 PM
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Everyone reading the forum would especially appreciate any sort of trail report you can give once you get back.

If you can take a few pictures showing trail conditions, especially the switchbacks or the slope to the west (whichever you use), and the trail at the JMT junction -- just over the other side from Trail Crest. (If you email me the pics, I can post them.)

Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
Steve C #31116 04/29/13 04:10 PM
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I can deff do that...it is the least i can do for the help


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Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
wbtravis #31123 04/29/13 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted By: wbtravis
It is a light snow year, not a no snow year.


+infinity

While levels of total snow are definitely lower in the southern Sierra, including Whitney, other areas of the Sierra still have enough coverage to make things really annoying.

From the summit of Mt. Emerson, looking west to Piute Pass, from this past Saturday:



Be prepared for pretty much anything, and know how to use the gear and conduct yourselves.


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Think outside the Zone.
Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
MooseTracks #31126 04/29/13 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted By: MooseTracks
[quote=wbtravis]
From the summit of Mt. Emerson, looking west to Piute Pass, from this past Saturday:
'emersom frozen lakes there, Laura.
I did a little leg stretcher up Bishop Pass Trail Saturday between fishing and soaking. You're so lucky to live there.

Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
MooseTracks #31129 04/30/13 07:48 AM
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Hmmm...."Be prepared for pretty much anything, and know how to use the gear and conduct yourselves."

If people did that, they would ruin all the fun for us commenters on all things stupid.

However, this is the crux of this part of the Whitney quota season. I got a permit and I'm going to do it. I really, really, want to glissade from Trail Crest in the afternoon shadows when the slope is icing up and getting faster. What rocks on my left?

Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
wbtravis #31132 04/30/13 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted By: wbtravis
Hmmm...."Be prepared for pretty much anything, and know how to use the gear and conduct yourselves."

If people did that, they would ruin all the fun for us commenters on all things stupid.

However, this is the crux of this part of the Whitney quota season. I got a permit and I'm going to do it. I really, really, want to glissade from Trail Crest in the afternoon shadows when the slope is icing up and getting faster. What rocks on my left?

WB, since you brought it up, I'll admit to a dumb decision I made spur of the moment at Trail Crest with aching knees not wanting to hike down the switchbacks. I have good skills with an ice ax, but all I had was a collapsed hiking pole to self arrest every 10 or 20 ft maybe. Off I went. I took it very slowly, and it wasn't icy, but it was stupid, no doubt about it. That hiking pole bent and never opened up again. When I got back home, I found out a guy died doing something similar just a week before I did it. He lost control and hit rocks at the bottom at high speed. Just glad I didn't end up shredded on a rock and then shredded again on a forum thread. I may still get shredded just for admitting this. eek

Re: Mt. Whitney late spring
SierraNevada #31159 05/01/13 08:09 AM
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SN,

We all do stupid things. The questions are when and where. I did something incredible stupid this past winter but it was in a place where the most that could happen to were ripped this and that and; scrapes and bruises...and that what I ended up with. If I did what did in the chute in April or May of this year, I would not be posting this.

As you noted, people die and get hurt in the chute from time to time. Usually, from not knowing what they are getting into after a long arduous day on Mt. Whitney when the mind is not function on all 8 cylinders.


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