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Mountaineers route May 9-10
#46126 05/05/16 02:17 PM
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Hello!

Long time reader and first time poster. We are planning to climb May 9-10.

1) With the weather coming in this weekend I would love to start a conversation about Avy risks from Iceberg to the notch. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

2) Also how warm of boots do you recommend? I was debating between my LS Trango Cubes which climb well and better for the approach or the stiffer warmer LS Batura 2.0?

3) Will there be a water source to boil at Upper Boy Scout lake or Iceberg lake?

Our plan is to park Sunday and sleep, hike out to Upper Boy Scout lake and camp on Monday. Summit Tuesday. Bringing ice ax, crampons, rope, snow shoes

Thanks Mr. Bob Wiley


Re: Mountaineers route May 9-10
BibWiley #46128 05/05/16 03:13 PM
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For reference:

La Sportiva Trango Cube
   


La Sportiva Batura 2.0
   

It's spring time. I'd go with the better-for-climbing Trangos.

Re: Mountaineers route May 9-10
BibWiley #46132 05/05/16 03:40 PM
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I've got the Cubes and would go with them for this climb; wear gaiters as well.

I'm not sure if Iceberg is still iced over - UBSL should have water accessible.

Re: Mountaineers route May 9-10
BibWiley #46133 05/05/16 05:02 PM
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At this point I'm shooting for Wed night @ Trail camp and summit on Thurs via the Chute, Trail crest and west side trail.

I've got the Scarpa Charmoz, which is the equivalent of the Trango. It seems all the Sierra guides wear the Trango. (I tried them but they are too narrow for my feet.)

UBSL is @ 11.2k - it may have some water available. Iceberg, however, is at 12.6k, and was iced over last year on May 30. I remember carrying a few liters of water from our camp @ UBSL on summit day.

Iceberg, 5/30/15


Trail camp is @ 12.1k, so I'm looking at carrying some water from Outpost rather than spend a lot of time boiling. At this point, I think I may carry 3l and put it aside to ensure I have what I need on summit day. I figure I can boil/look for run-off on the day/night prior, and deal with getting water once I return.

Last edited by Hobbes; 05/05/16 05:08 PM.
Re: Mountaineers route May 9-10
Steve C #46134 05/05/16 06:01 PM
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Awesome, thank you Steve and Scott. I was leaning towards the Cubes, but my love affair with the baturas always makes me think twice smile

Last edited by BibWiley; 05/05/16 06:04 PM.
Re: Mountaineers route May 9-10
Hobbes #46135 05/05/16 06:09 PM
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Hobbes-

Thanks for the pic and info. It looks like I will be there a couple days ahead of you. i will see if I can upload some pics before you head out. I wish we could have waited a couple more days for the snow to firm up a bit more.

Anyone have a good Avalanche site they check? Any good info about the risks on the chute after a spring storm like this one?

Re: Mountaineers route May 9-10
BibWiley #46138 05/05/16 08:37 PM
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I was just up there yesterday and today trying to break in my Baturas before I head to Bolivia next month and my feet were roasting. I'd go with the Cubes for sure.

Re: Mountaineers route May 9-10
ScottL #46140 05/06/16 04:22 AM
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Thanks scott. I will definently take the cubes. How was the hike in with Baturas? did you need snowshoes? If so when did you take them off?

Re: Mountaineers route May 9-10
BibWiley #46146 05/06/16 01:21 PM
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No need for snowshoes. The snow starts once you reach LBSL (other than the few little sections on the south side of the creek below there), however it is plenty firm and consolidated.


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