Mt Whitney Webcam
Mt Williamson Webcam
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 121 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Ice Axes and Crampons: how to use safely
#50298 06/23/17 09:58 AM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 908
Likes: 2
B
OP Offline
B
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 908
Likes: 2
This season we have seen a lot of people using ice axes and crampons for the first time. Many seem to believe that merely purchasing them and carrying them is all they need. This is very far from reality, and can lead to accidents.

It is highly recommended that before venturing into the mountains with these basic mountaineering tools, that folks get professional training. Just reading "how to" information on the internet will not make you a safe user of these essential tools.

At the bottom of this post I have listed some, hopefully, useful information, including a few California based organizations that provide competent, professional training. I am not an employee of those listed companies, but know they have a good reputation. As an alternative, local SAR teams might be helpful in providing or locating training; you can learn a lot from them.

When I was training newbies on a local SAR team we put them through intense training and practice on the safe use of ice axes and crampons, doing repeated exercises. Every year we did refresher training to make sure we were current in our skills.

Ice axes and crampons are also very sharp and it not used properly have the potential for causing injury; even experienced climbers sometimes get hurt using them. Once, I was glissading down the Palisade glacier and lost control, tumbling end over end down the slope, with my leashed ice axe flailing around my body. Lesson learned, no harm done, except to my ego.

https://www.outdoors.org/articles/amc-outdoors/how-to-use-an-ice-ax/

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/hill-skills-your-first-axe-and-crampons

http://www.sierramtnguides.com/program/ice-axe-and-crampon-seminar/

http://www.internationalalpineguides.com/california-mountaineering/

https://www.sierramountaincenter.com/winter-mountaineering/



Last edited by Bob West; 06/23/17 10:01 AM.
Re: Ice Axes and Crampons: how to use safely
Bob West #50304 06/23/17 11:11 AM
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 27
J
JMH Offline
Offline
J
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 27
Thanks Bob-

I agree and was thinking in general terms about everything you posted but I'm not qualified like you to provide these details. So I'm glad you posted.

While hiking accross the 99th switchback in the "dry" July summer last year, I only just looked down the chute. I can only imagine what it would be like to tumble down that chute if it were all iced up.

I guess its a personal choice but if I do try crampons someday there is no way for me that it would be on Whitney.

Jeff

Re: Ice Axes and Crampons: how to use safely
JMH #50306 06/23/17 11:51 AM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 908
Likes: 2
B
OP Offline
B
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 908
Likes: 2
Yes, Whitney is not the best place to practice, except on easy slopes before the "chute".

Our SAR training and practice was always on slopes with safe run-outs at the bottom...and within an easy walk of the cars, ha ha.

Out favorite practice slope was just above Glacier Lodge campground on Big Pine creek.

Last edited by Bob West; 06/23/17 11:51 AM.
Re: Ice Axes and Crampons: how to use safely
Bob West #50311 06/23/17 03:33 PM
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 5
T
Offline
T
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 5
Hi bob,

I was wondering about this. I still have my concerns and don't know how I feel.
My boyfriends and I are experienced with hiking and being on the mountains. We have done some hard trails and sadly have to say we haven't always done them right but did get eachother through it. However either one of us is used to snow. We aren't mountaineers. He's all geared up has the crampons and ice ax and thinks of we take our time and go slow and know if we are too tired we will be good. However I feel that just because we can buy the gear doesn't make us experienced. I don't want to talk with an ax because I know nothing about the tool or how to use it. Some say it's just common sense but I say it's experience and I don't want to have never used a tool and my first time being Whitney. Same with crampons. They scare me as well. I've never used them but I figure I can rent them in the shop in lone pine I was told about. I have my trekking poles. I can get crampons but I know I don't feel comfortable glissading and I don't know how to use an ice ax even if I fall so why carry it. Can I make it up and down safely with just crampons and poles if I just take my time?

Re: Ice Axes and Crampons: how to use safely
Team NEGU #50313 06/23/17 04:30 PM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 908
Likes: 2
B
OP Offline
B
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 908
Likes: 2
In the following notes I am careful to use the word "might" not "will" and "should" not "could"; remember that.

Without ice axe training, you might be better off not bringing one. Ascending with crampons and poles might be safe enough for you. However, if the snow is soft you can climb safely without the crampons by kicking steps in the snow. On the descent if the snow is soft, and if not using an ice axe, it is safer to take-off the crampons; just make certain of every step down.

Glissading with crampons is a big no-no. If the crampon spikes should happen to dig in you could end up with an ankle or leg injury. One of my very experienced climbing partners would never glissade under any circumstance; he had seen too many glissading accidents (as have I). If the snow is soft coming down the chute you can descend safely by taking your time and walking down one careful step at a time, being careful not to plunge step into holes between rocks under the snow. It will take longer to descend, but is actually safer.

One technique descending with hiking poles is to carry one with both hands around the shaft near the little spike. Then if you slip, quickly jag the spike into the snow. There might be enough friction to slow you down until you are able to stop. Again, this takes practice in safe conditions.

Finally, if the snow in the chute is hard and un-yielding, ice axe and crampons will be necessary. In hard snow/ice conditions, without them, don't go!

Having said all of that, you need to get ice axe and crampon training to prepare you for any future adventures on steep snow. Climbing is a lot of fun, but it can also be dangerous. Be safe.


Last edited by Bob West; 06/23/17 04:44 PM.

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.4
(Release build 20200307)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 7.4.33 Page Time: 0.038s Queries: 24 (0.026s) Memory: 0.5949 MB (Peak: 0.6585 MB) Data Comp: Off Server Time: 2024-03-28 14:54:26 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS