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#51888 - 08/28/17 07:24 AM MR conditions
Anton Offline


Registered: 08/02/17
Posts: 3
Loc: San Diego
Can someone post an update on the MR condition? Can the remaining snow in the gully be bypassed or climbed without an ice axe and crampons during a day? Is there any snow left on the traverse section above the notch and if so, can it be navigated safely? I will need to quickly get up in the afternoon of Sep 1 with the heavy pack.


Edited by Anton (08/28/17 08:39 AM)

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#51890 - 08/28/17 08:30 AM Re: MR conditions [Re: Anton]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 7194
Loc: Fresno, CA
Why the heavy pack???

Kurt Wedberg posted on facebook that he climbed the MR Aug 22, and crampons and ice axe were still required.

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#51892 - 08/28/17 08:39 AM Re: MR conditions [Re: Steve C]
Anton Offline


Registered: 08/02/17
Posts: 3
Loc: San Diego
I presume he was guiding clients and they were going up early in the morning, when the snow tends to be harder.


Edited by Anton (08/28/17 08:44 AM)

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#51896 - 08/28/17 03:25 PM Re: MR conditions [Re: Anton]
BFR Online


Registered: 04/07/16
Posts: 69
Loc: Santa Monica, CA
When I climbed the MR on 7/30, crampons and ice ax weren't necessary if you arrived later in the morning when the snow was softer. Poles were sufficient.
_________________________
Strava, IG

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#52038 - 09/05/17 11:26 AM Re: MR conditions [Re: BFR]
Megin O Offline


Registered: 09/05/17
Posts: 2
Loc: SoCal
BFR, what time did you cross the snow? Did you also descend the MR?
I'll be there 9/7.

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#52039 - 09/05/17 11:30 AM Re: MR conditions [Re: Megin O]
Megin O Offline


Registered: 09/05/17
Posts: 2
Loc: SoCal
Also, I'll have a ~30lb backpack on... stopping at Iceberg on day 1, climbing East Buttress & back to Iceberg on day 2, and out day 3.
Thanks.

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#52074 - 09/06/17 02:58 PM Re: MR conditions [Re: Megin O]
BFR Online


Registered: 04/07/16
Posts: 69
Loc: Santa Monica, CA
Originally Posted By: Megin O
BFR, what time did you cross the snow? Did you also descend the MR?
I'll be there 9/7.


Around 10am.
_________________________
Strava, IG

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#52147 - 09/13/17 07:15 AM Re: MR conditions [Re: Anton]
Wincom Offline


Registered: 09/13/17
Posts: 2
Loc: MINNESOTA
Any updates on the MR route? Snow conditions? Crampons and ice axe needed to make it up the chute??

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#52151 - 09/13/17 08:18 AM Re: MR conditions [Re: Wincom]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 7194
Loc: Fresno, CA
This year, I believe the snow in the chute has remained. Depending on the time of day, you would need crampons to cross it. I think I'd take them just in case this year.

There has already been some snow/hail falling in the upper elevation, so the Final 400 may have some icy spots too.

SMI guide Kurt Wedberg posted this picture of a client descending the MR chute on 9/5. His pics are here


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#52156 - 09/13/17 02:26 PM Re: MR conditions [Re: Steve C]
Wincom Offline


Registered: 09/13/17
Posts: 2
Loc: MINNESOTA
Awesome, thank you!

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