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MR conditions
#51888 08/28/17 07:24 AM
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Anton Offline OP
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Can someone post an update on the MR condition? Can the remaining snow in the gully be bypassed or climbed without an ice axe and crampons during a day? Is there any snow left on the traverse section above the notch and if so, can it be navigated safely? I will need to quickly get up in the afternoon of Sep 1 with the heavy pack.

Last edited by Anton; 08/28/17 08:39 AM.
Re: MR conditions
Anton #51890 08/28/17 08:30 AM
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Why the heavy pack???

Kurt Wedberg posted on facebook that he climbed the MR Aug 22, and crampons and ice axe were still required.

Re: MR conditions
Steve C #51892 08/28/17 08:39 AM
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I presume he was guiding clients and they were going up early in the morning, when the snow tends to be harder.

Last edited by Anton; 08/28/17 08:44 AM.
Re: MR conditions
Anton #51896 08/28/17 03:25 PM
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When I climbed the MR on 7/30, crampons and ice ax weren't necessary if you arrived later in the morning when the snow was softer. Poles were sufficient.

Re: MR conditions
BFR #52038 09/05/17 11:26 AM
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BFR, what time did you cross the snow? Did you also descend the MR?
I'll be there 9/7.

Re: MR conditions
Megin O #52039 09/05/17 11:30 AM
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Also, I'll have a ~30lb backpack on... stopping at Iceberg on day 1, climbing East Buttress & back to Iceberg on day 2, and out day 3.
Thanks.

Re: MR conditions
Megin O #52074 09/06/17 02:58 PM
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BFR Offline
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Originally Posted By: Megin O
BFR, what time did you cross the snow? Did you also descend the MR?
I'll be there 9/7.


Around 10am.

Re: MR conditions
Anton #52147 09/13/17 07:15 AM
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Any updates on the MR route? Snow conditions? Crampons and ice axe needed to make it up the chute??

Re: MR conditions
Wincom #52151 09/13/17 08:18 AM
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This year, I believe the snow in the chute has remained. Depending on the time of day, you would need crampons to cross it. I think I'd take them just in case this year.

There has already been some snow/hail falling in the upper elevation, so the Final 400 may have some icy spots too.

SMI guide Kurt Wedberg posted this picture of a client descending the MR chute on 9/5. His pics are here


Re: MR conditions
Steve C #52156 09/13/17 02:26 PM
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Awesome, thank you!


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