Short story on a 5-nighter
Three of us went over New Army Pass to Langley trail, then down toward Upper Soldier but skirted around base of Major General into Miter Basin. Eventually over Crabtree Pass where there was a cornice on the south side but circumvented it. North side descending from pass was dry/no ice. Camped at large spot about 100 vertical feet above upper end of upper Crabtree Lake. Somehow I had overlooked that spot on 2 previous trips. How? Anyway, we wondered if the snow slope on the north shore of the lake the next am would be too dangerous ice. Yep. See photo. There a few prints visible from someone else earlier.
We had microspikes only, no crampons, ice ax, ice screws or ropes. After a few tentative steps on the ice, we decided a slip into the lake was too likely and fatal. Therefore, we climbed above the snow on the route shown here. Guess how long this detour took? I am not sure which was worse - going up or coming down. Distances are deceiving. We estimated exactly.