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#55298 - 06/03/19 04:00 PM MR route conditions as of 6/1/2019
Jeston Offline


Registered: 06/03/19
Posts: 4
Loc: Calofornia
Hi there, I went up the MR this Saturday during the little fit of snowfall. Conditions were not ideal, but not bad enough to turn around. About 11 of us summited in about 8 hours from the portal.

As for the final 400', it was pretty reasonable to get a good grip with the axe and crampons, but some of the snow was not consolidated yet and as we climbed, the "dippin' dots" filled the boot tracks fairly quick.

If anyone is planning on going, be careful on the traverse back, the snow was very fresh and our axes went straight down to geanite with very little crust. I would assume by today, it should be packed in a lot more. Going down the 400' was not an option due to the amount of snow that was falling once we reached the summit. Happy trails, here's a video showing what it's like to climb the final portion, it was my first time on this route. I plan on coming back and trying the east buttress in the future.

https://youtu.be/LRm3gDd0C0U

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#55299 - 06/03/19 10:45 PM Re: MR route conditions as of 6/1/2019 [Re: Jeston]
Steve C Offline


Registered: 09/22/09
Posts: 7907
Loc: Fresno, CA
Gnarly climb! Glad the Final 400 worked for you.

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#55309 - 06/04/19 09:33 PM Re: MR route conditions as of 6/1/2019 [Re: Jeston]
mnm.94 Offline


Registered: 06/04/19
Posts: 1
Loc: CA
By which route did you descend? We’re you on skis?

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#55310 - 06/04/19 10:36 PM Re: MR route conditions as of 6/1/2019 [Re: mnm.94]
Jeston Offline


Registered: 06/03/19
Posts: 4
Loc: Calofornia
Originally Posted By: mnm.94
By which route did you descend? We’re you on skis?


I was not on skis, but the 2 other guys i was with had split boards. (Skis that turn into a snowboard). They snow boarded the entire way back to lbs lake while i glissaded down from the notch.

Edit: we went back down via the walkoff traverse and it was insanely sketchy and loose snow.


Edited by Jeston (06/04/19 10:37 PM)

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#55322 - 06/05/19 03:47 PM Re: MR route conditions as of 6/1/2019 [Re: Jeston]
Hoot Offline


Registered: 02/01/19
Posts: 17
Loc: Ohio
Cool video! Did anyone in your group measure the slope angle on the Final 400? I've heard it's over 45 degrees. Hard to tell from the video (which makes it look like 75 :-).

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#55323 - 06/05/19 06:41 PM Re: MR route conditions as of 6/1/2019 [Re: Hoot]
Jeston Offline


Registered: 06/03/19
Posts: 4
Loc: Calofornia
Originally Posted By: Hoot
Cool video! Did anyone in your group measure the slope angle on the Final 400? I've heard it's over 45 degrees. Hard to tell from the video (which makes it look like 75 :-).


Honestly, it felt pretty steep in the final 10 feet. We estimated 50+, but did not measure.

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#55333 - 06/08/19 09:56 AM Re: MR route conditions as of 6/1/2019 [Re: Jeston]
Leon Offline


Registered: 06/08/19
Posts: 4
Loc: California
I hope the snow is like this in early July...could u see snow on MT Russell

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#55388 - 06/11/19 10:08 AM Re: MR route conditions as of 6/1/2019 [Re: Leon]
Jeston Offline


Registered: 06/03/19
Posts: 4
Loc: Calofornia
Originally Posted By: Leon
I hope the snow is like this in early July...could u see snow on MT Russell


Everything was covered in snow above 11k feet.

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