I've waited almost a year to write this trip report, since failing to summit Whitney last August on a dayhike. Got to within a couple dozen switchbacks of Trail Crest when AMS hammered me out of the blue. Being solo, I decided discretion was the better part of valor and turned back. I've been mad as hell over that for the past 11 months, mostly because I'd never had altitude issues with fourteeners before. My fault, though -- I was sleeping in Lone Pine last year and, after reflection, realized I had never been really high without also sleeping high (i.e., Colorado, where you can't NOT sleep high. Duh.).
I wrote a TR on the WPS message board shortly after that, and out of that TR grew a long distance, e-mail friendship with Joe Quillan (quillansculpture), who also failed to summit on his first Whitney attempt a few weeks later. Joe eventually summitted in October on his second try. I congratulated him and started ruminating about us possibly getting together for my second attempt in 2010. Joe's in L.A., I'm in Atlanta -- not a natural partnership for two full-deck club dudes (52 YO) who've never met, but out of that grew the two-day trip we took up/down Whitney last week. We both successfully summitted, and that was definitely satisfying, but I believe it was the bond of friendship that we cemented that was the best part of the adventure. That, and my 10 YO daughter deciding she had a new uncle!
I combined this Whitney climb with a family vacation to the Sierra. It began in Mammoth Lakes -- deliberately, with the thought of sleeping 5 nights at 8000 feet before heading for Whitney -- and was also based on crossed-fingers, wishful permit hopes. Joe and I were both skunked in the lottery this year, so we made plans for Whitney with the semi-firm confidence that 2 overnight permits would become available (they did, 3 days out -- and
only 2). During the time in Mammoth, my wife, daughter and I hiked several trails in the Yosemite, White Mountain and Mosquito Flats area, getting to about 11,000 feet with no problems and having a blast. My two girls weren't doing Whitney with us this time, but it sure made me confident that one day they would.
After an encounter with a dumpster-diving bear in our condo garage in Mammoth, followed by a wonderful dinner with the Moose of Ages, we headed for Lone Pine the morning of the 14th and met up with Joe at the Portal. Very little time for anything but quick hellos, getting packs organized, weighing in (32 lbs each, but he's 215 and I'm 175 -- how the hell did
that happen?!), and hitting the trail. It may sound like a weird way to start hiking a big-ass mountain with a partner you've never met, but it felt very right to both of us. By the time we hit Lone Pine Lake, it was like we had been hiking together for years.
The weight was a struggle at times, and we were hiking in the hottest part of the day, so we took the first few miles slowly. The goal was Consultation Lake, just below Trail Camp, and we made it there about 5:00. We had left the Portal about 10:30, so no records for speed were broken. Several rest/chat breaks along the way, as well as a leisurely lunch, but we were more than happy to drop those 32-pound packs and set up camp at Consultation Lake.
CL was one of the highlights of the trip. While planning this hike I had been vacillating between Trail Camp and Consultation Lake. During our dinner with Laura the night before the entry day she strongly suggested CL and, to no one's surprise, she knew exactly what she was talking about. Other than a few mice, lots of fish, and a not-very-shy pika, we had the entire lake to ourselves. It was quiet, serene, and provided a gorgeous backdrop for the sunset. After a dinner of stroganoff and spaghetti (carbs!), Joe and I climbed into our tents feeling on top of the world. The only downside was when Joe asked what time we should start in the morning. My reply of 5:30, with a 4:30 wake-up, didn't fill him with warm fuzzies. Several times before the quiet finally descended on our camp I heard, "Four-thirty? Four-freakin-thirty?!"
We had a quiet night with no wind, and only a few scurrying mice testing our tents. Still, at almost 12,000 feet, sleep is fleeting. I woke up at 3:30 and couldn't go back to sleep, so about 4:10 I started making enough noise to wake Joe. "Is it 4:30?", he called out. "Yep", I replied. I've been called a liar before, so I'm not proud . . .
Turns out we're both coffee addicts, so plenty of java to start the day. Joe even downed a bowl of instant grits I had brought along as a semi-joke. Hey, he is from
Southern California, after all. I wasn't hungry -- my biggest issue at altitude -- and I just ate one granola bar. I'd pay for that before the day was over.
With stripped-down, light packs -- and hopes that the marmots were concentrating on the Trail Camp buffet - we headed up the trail and began our harder 16-mile day with the miserable switchbacks. Trudge, trudge, trudge. Bor-ing. We were passed around SB # 40 by a tiny, young lady sucking on a packet of GU who was moving like she was on a mission. She stopped long enough for us to discover she had left the Portal at 4:30. We left CL at 5:30. She caught and passed us less than halfway up the switchbacks. Damn - I didn't even want to do the math.
Blue sky and a few white puffy clouds smiled on us as we counted switchbacks in our heads. The cables were a letdown, almost. After all the posting about snow/ice at the cables the past few weeks, it was a dry-footed walk along the outer edge of the trail. The snow had receded quite a bit since I had seen the last report. Another few dozen switchers and I was in new territory, and before I knew it I could see the summit hut off in the distance. Oh yeah -- I could smell summit! A packet of GU and a few peanut M&Ms and we're at Trail Crest. The view from here is everything I've read and pictured -- and more!
We dropped packs and rested, re-hydrated for about 45 minutes, while enjoying the view. Really, just shooting the breeze with the other numerous hikers hanging out there. Also, photos and helping others with their photos. A few more M&Ms and we're off down the hill. Joe then became my tour guide since he had been here before and I had not, and we had a good-natured banter starting about his being one up on me for Whitney summits (that would be one to zero at the time, but it felt more like 99 to 100). We checked each other's condition and determined no headaches or nausea several times during the next 2.5 miles. At one point we both felt a slight nausea, but amazingly it went away shortly afterwards for both of us.
The snow field near the summit was still pretty large and just a bit slippery and icy in spots, but easily do-able with trekking poles. The switchbacks leading to the summit really pissed me off, as they seemed to add a helluva lot more distance than necessary and just prolonged our getting to the hut. Several times between Trail Crest and the summit we encountered a young lady suffering from AMS. Each time we encountered her we made it clear that the only thing that would relieve her symptoms at this point was turning back and going down. She doggedly continued upward though, and we found out later why she had such a determination to get to the summit.
Finally the hut came back into view and about five minutes later -- just about noon - we touched it, high-fiving and congratulating each other. We dropped packs and signed the register, then spent the next 45 minutes wandering the summit, looking for the MR notch (the one near the old toilet wall, right?), taking photos and BSing with the other summiteers. I couldn't believe how good I felt after last year's debacle -- in fact, I felt better at 14,505 feet than I had all day. Go figure.
There was a group of about 15 on the summit who had laid out a smorgasbord of food and was encouraging -- begging, actually -- anyone and everyone to come partake. Clearly a case of, "Oh hell, we're gonna have to pack this stuff back down?!" The group was dayhiking Whitney as a memorial to a friend who had recently passed away, and both the speed-burner who passed us earlier and the lady with AMS were part of this group. The lady with AMS got lots of attagirls all around for her courage and determination, but the best part of that story is that she made it down OK.
Joe had his summit-Snickers as well as an apple from the group's spread, but I still wasn't hungry and didn't eat anything. Not smart, and I knew it, but I felt so good it didn't seem to matter at the time. We might have stayed longer, but gray clouds were building to the west and we headed back just before 1:00. It's true -- that damn uphill to Trail Crest on the way back really sucks.
Having now seen the infamous windows, I can only say, "what's the big deal?" High winds in winter conditions or an exceptionally acrophobic hiker - OK, I understand. Otherwise, not very intimidating. Secondly, I just don't get the whole making-the-wrong-turn thing at the JMT. Maybe with bad AMS or disorientation, but otherwise the trail -- and terrain - seems pretty straightforward to me, sign or no sign. Just sayin' . . .
We burned down the switchbacks at a pretty good pace and were back at CL by 2:30. Packing up camp and refilling H2O took about an hour. As we were loading our packs we heard thunder from the dark clouds now surrounding the summit and it started to rain on us. Just nuisance rain, but enough to make us want to get down ASAP. Those loaded packs felt way heavier than the 30-something pounds we knew them to be, and the final 3 miles to the Portal were no fun. I had eaten nothing since the M&Ms at Trail Crest going up, and my lack of food intake for the day was showing.
Surprisingly, my wife Barb and 10 YO daughter Brianne met us at about the two-mile point and took us down the old trailhead that comes out by the waterfall at the Portal. Now, Barb knew absolutely no one associated with the Portal (other than Laura) when Joe and I had headed up the trail the morning before, so I'm curious how she can possibly know this route. Turns out she'd buddied up with anyone and everyone at the Portal the previous two days, including Jack and Betsy Northam. Betsy had shown her the trail which avoided the worst water crossing that my daughter may have had trouble negotiating late in the day as strong as the streams were flowing. Thank God, 'cuz I was worried about that since Joe and I had crossed it the previous morning and it was already running over several rock-hops early in the day.
Not only that, but I find out that while I've been up on the mountain with Joe, Brianne had been adopted by Doug and Doug Jr., and was learning the ropes of cooking in the WPS kitchen and working behind the counter with Doug and Amy. Do you have any idea how eerie it feels to walk up to the WPS counter to order a burger and have your 10 YO daughter take that order and ring it up?! And with a smug, self-confident smile that shouts, "So what if my room's a disaster zone? Look at me now, Dad!"
We missed last kitchen call at the Portal so we went back to the Hostel. All that food I didn't eat during the day came back to haunt me with severe nausea for a while after. After finally puking my guts up I felt much better and was able to join Joe and my family in the Hostel lobby for a consolation meal of Carl's burgers. Joe and I were wiped pretty good, and he took the fourth bunk in our room for the night (do I owe you for that extra person Doug?). By the next morning Brianne had a new Uncle Joe and is still at the top of her hit parade (when it's not Laura or Doug!). Joe, you are great with kids, dude! Bri still has me popping her toes like you showed her.
We headed up to the Portal for breakfast, and Joe got to spend some time with Jack and Betsy. Unfortunately, he had to return to L.A. that day so he missed his long-awaited meeting with Laura, but I passed on a little gift to her that he had brought along -- a silver Canadian commemorative national park coin featuring a moose. The next 3 days were pretty much spent at the Portal, eating carbs and watching Brianne show off working in the store. Doug, Doug Jr. and Amy were just wonderful with her, and we can't thank the Portal crew enough for the hospitality they showed us.
The time spent with Laura, Doug, Jack and Betsy was just exceptional, and I was honored to meet other regulars on the boards that I've known from afar: tomcat, graham, highitinierary, sierragator, Richard P and + @ti2d. Jim, I agree wholeheartedly: Gators and Dawgs
can coexist in the Sierra! Richard, next trip out there I may take you up on your offer for the Wallace drainage hike -- best of luck with achieving 100 summits. Gary, sorry we missed you at the campground Sunday before we left. It was a real pleasure finally meeting you and Pam, and keep the barley pop cold for me next year! Tom, enjoy the rest of your Sierra vacation before returning to Maryland, man! Tom(cat) - dude, a real pleasure finally meeting you!
Most especially, thank you Joe for taking the time to climb this mountain with me. It was a very special experience, and you have a primo place now in my family's heart. Same game plan next year brother? You betcha!
Laura, you just simply rock girl! I appreciate all the time you spent with us and, even more, the role model you provided for Brianne. She's determined to "be like da Moose!" I would be one proud dad.
Finally, my wife put it best when we were driving down from the Portal one day. She fell in love with everything about the Eastern Sierra, and especially Whitney and the Portal. She summed it up by saying, "I think I've found a piece of me that I didn't know was missing. How cool is that?!" That says it all, really.
Apologies for the length of this TR, but I've been waiting a long, long time to write it. Can't wait to get back out there next year!
Now, some photos:
A little 2 mile pre-Whitney hike around Convict Lake with Laura - in sandals no less!
The TOF!
"Hi, I'm Gary . . . "
While I'm on the mountain, Brianne was making friends . . .
Our camp at Consultation Lake - just damn!
Another view.
The cables - not so daunting now.
View from above.
Me at Trail Crest - finally!
Joe at Trail Crest - the old pro!
The Sierra Crest. Wow . . .
Joe on the summit!
Me on the summit!
Cool view from inside the hut.
Nice view of Muir and the needles.
Two very satisfied full-deckers at the Hostel after coming down.
Helping Doug and Doug Jr, with the pancakes!
I still can't quite accept the concept . . .
Barb, Brianne and "Uncle Joe"!
Laura's commemorative Moose coin from Joe!
A Mooseback ride and one happy girl!
Being fleeced by Jack and Betsy . . .
I love this shot.
And this one too!
A few more photos
here .
"Turtles, Frogs & other Environmental Sculpture"