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Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
#33638 10/04/13 02:25 PM
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Full Picture Album:
Full Crow Pass 2013 Picture Album

Crow Pass is a roughly 26 mile trek through the Chugach Mountains beginning in Girdwood and finishing at the Eagle River Nature Center. The hike begins with a 2,100 ft. elevation climb in the first few miles and mostly descends through valley of mountain peaks, glaciers, waterfalls, and a river crossing at the halfway point.
My partner for this hike is Ross, who is a Joshua Tree area climbing instructor and had a summer job in Denali National Park washing the “school” buses all summer. He was laid off from the summer job a few days early—because the pipes to the water hoses froze and burst as they washed buses.
The week before the hike brought a big snow dump in the mountains and even trace amounts of snow in Anchorage. Glen Alps, only a few miles from my house, had 8 inches of snow. The Rangers at the Crow Pass Ranger Station reported that there were 3 foot snow drifts at the Crow Pass Cabin. This made Ross and I discuss items such as snow shoes! As the week progressed it warmed up—as high as mid-50’s, and rained frequently. The termination dust across the mountains that line up with the Anchorage city skyline disappeared. So this led me to believe the snow in the Pass would likely be gone also. Keep in mind, our peak elevation would be 3,500 feet.
Thursday night Ross and I had the one hour drive to Eagle River Nature Center in rain, fog, and very poor visibility to drop our car that would wait for us until Saturday night. I believe that drive was the most dangerous part of the trip! As Friday morning came the excitement had built even though it was raining heavily. I planned on a full day’s work Friday early morning before leaving for the 45 minute drive to the Trailhead at about noon. As the sun rose, the views out my office windows barely displayed any sign that there was a mountain range somewhere in the dark gray and rainy clouds. My wife graciously agreed to drive the 1 hour trip to Girdwood and we started the hike at about 1:30 pm Friday afternoon in rainy, dark skies.

Looking down to the Trailhead after a quick climb:


We never quite reached the snow level seen in the picture. Also note the gold mining equipment in the lower right of the picture.


Ross quickly shed layers as we began the steep ascent to Crow Pass in the rain (carrying what we later weighed as 40 pound packs). I was prepared for this climb and started with only a shirt and Rain Jacket layer but thermals at the ready in case it was cold and windy at the top of the pass—which was fully expected. We barely touched snow on the trail to the top and the wind picked up as we climbed. It seemed like it would be a cloudy, rainy hike. Upon reaching the cabin we found the lake partially surrounded by snow but the wind began to dissipate. I was still worried about visibility to Raven Glacier since the Cloud level was so low. My worries were soon set aside as we rounded the corner to see the Crow Pass sign at Raven Glacier in the background.

Crow Pass Cabin (reservable for 6 people for $35)


Crow Pass:


Raven Glacier (note the 3 “rivers” flowing out of the glacier)


After covering the hardest part of this day’s hike we had plenty of time to explore before dark so my plan was to get to that Glacier! It was a much harder hike down the glacier than expected across a steep scree field that was often covered in deep but post-holey snow along with running creeks of water across slick rock. The payoff was amazing. Ross had never been to a glacier before and was awestruck at the colors and magnificence. We found a “cave” and hiked 30 yards or so into the glacier, were able to look up and out of the glacier through crevasses, and found one of the running rivers inside the glacier.

Glacier Cave


PERFECT Water Refill—NO Filtering Necessary!


Raven Glacier (sorry for the washed out exposure at top of picture but it goes on forever)


By the time we left the glacier the sun had come out and it would not rain the rest of the trip! We covered 5 more miles before setting up camp right at dark. The next day would be a long one and include the river crossing. That made it 8 miles for the day leaving about 18 miles for Day 2.

I’m told the hike goes through 5/6 totally different ecosystems. Here are fall colors in front of Snow-Topped Mountains:


Campsite


Ross above River Gorge:


Looking back at River Gorge:


Breaking camp by 9:15am after brushing condensation ice off the rain fly, the next morning would bring quite a bit of excitement before the eagerly anticipated Eagle River Crossing in 5 miles. We encountered lots of fresh bear and moose tracks on the rough and muddy trail. However it wasn’t until the forestry descent just before the river that the alarm went off. Ross and I properly had been making noise and loud conversation through the entire hike. Brush is sometimes very high and it is easy to surprise a bear if you are not making noise. Ross and I even had a spirited conversation on our plan of escape if the entry to the Glacier Cave would have collapsed. We settled on two not so good options. 1. Climb out the icy walls with NO equipment. 2. Jump in the river and hope to be washed out without major injury in the river washout seen on the right of the picture up above. If escape were impossible, we noted that there may have been no way for searchers to ever find any trace of us at all. Searchers recently found a military airplane crash from the World War II area on a local glacier. As we discussed this mortality tale, we suddenly heard a HUGE ROAR/GROWL. Unmistakably a Bear! Both of us pulled our readily accessible bear spray cans and began to make lots of noise. We never saw the bear. But we sure made him angry and it sure got our blood pumping!
Bear Tracks:


Ross ready to Fight Bear:


After narrowly escaping the jaws of death from the bear we traveled on and turned a corner to find this view of Eagle Glacier and Eagle River:


Normally a hiker can expect knee to waist deep water. Notice the calm and still water to the right of the picture. Suspicious, I threw a rock only to hear a kerplunk with no sound of rock hitting bottom. Importantly the white stakes are set up at a wide portion of the river avoiding narrower sections of deeper and swifter rapids. With fresh snow melt and sunny skies melting the glacier, I expected a tough and painfully cold crossing. Somewhat anti-climatically the crossing was still very painfully cold—but only calf/halfway to our knees depth. Ross even found a shovel in the middle of the river, and as a true LNTer, I now have that shovel as a souvenir of the hike in my home thanks to Ross lugging it! With the most “dangerous” parts of the hike behind us, we now only needed to cover 13 rugged miles through bear/moose infested muddy uneven trails! Thankfully two other crossing which had turned dangerous early in the season after the logs washed out were mostly fixed.



Note: Shovel in Hand

We were blessed with beautiful waterfalls and wildlife on this part of the trail. Ross noted that when he first arrived in Anchorage I took him out for a quick drive before his train trip to Denali. I tried, and inexplicably failed, to find him a moose. As they began the beautiful glass-topped train ride to Denali, Ross expressed a hypothesis that moose did not really exist and it was a hoax similar to Big Foot. Others on the train, fed the theory and Ross was convinced moose were just made up—when suddenly from the train all spotted a moose. Similarly I have yet to seen a black bear since I moved to Alaska. Doubt is creeping in that black bears do indeed exist. At this point in our conversation, I spotted far across the river bed what was definitely a black bear!

Black Bear?


Clearly on my camera viewfinder the dark black coat resonated as he was in view for only a short while before disappearing in the trees. Alas, upon reviewing my pictures loaded on my computer, I note a brown tint and a definitive distinction shoulder/neck hump. Indeed this was a brown bear/grizzly bear and I still have yet to see a black bear in Alaska.

Later we spotted a pool of spawning salmon in the river—some already bright red!


And finally, way up on the hillside we spotted two polar bears!


Tough and Rugged Trail (and supposedly downhill!):







Covering 18 miles with 40 pound packs on this type of trail was indeed difficult and we realized we were not going to make it before it turned dark at about 8:30pm. With headlamps out we completed the hike at about 9:15pm after 12 hours of hiking. We were so thankful we caught the break in weather. We really were expecting a rain filled hike with a low cloud ceiling curtailing the views. Most of my clothes went unused---never did use the thermals! We saw NO ONE until near the end of the trail two hunters had hiked in from the other direction to spot dall sheep and goats. I’ve concluded that I believe a dayhike is actually easier as far as body soreness and effort. Earlier in the summer it is easy to do it at an enjoyable pace with plenty of daylight.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Chicagocwright #33639 10/04/13 03:07 PM
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Fabulous pictures! And a great autumn adventure. Thanks for sharing.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
wazzu #33645 10/05/13 12:39 AM
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Chicagocwright, thank you for a very interesting read.

Of course, I'm biased -- I had my first exposure to Alaska over 18 days this last May/June. I most assuredly left a piece of my heart there, and look forward to returning.

Now, regarding your hike -- you mean it's harder than hiking Flat Top Mountain?!

(A semi-"inside" joke that will be understood by those who are familiar with Flat Top (Anchorage). That was the only hike I did during my visit. It is the most climbed mountain in all of Alaska.)

Wondering if moose (not you, Laura! grin) were a hoax -- I had that EXACT thought about Mt. McKinley/Denali during my visit. Despite a number of good opportunities it was never completely visible to me. Couldn't see it from the south viewpoint on the George Parks Highway, couldn't see it from Eielson Visitor Center on the road in the national park, couldn't see it from a highly regarded observation point on the University of Alaska campus in Fairbanks, COULDN'T SEE IT FROM A TWIN OTTER FLYING AT SUMMIT LEVEL! It was completely cloud obscured all the time. (Not unusual -- it's notoriously fickle at being seen.) Oh well, just one of MANY reasons for a return trip. I at least DID have some great views into the mountains in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.

If I'm naïve here, please forgive me, but my impression when you referred to polar bears in one of your pictures was that you must be mistaken, as I was pretty sure they didn't populate the area around Anchorage, or anywhere really close to it.

I Googled it all quickly, and this map of the polar bears' range seems to validate my thoughts. Or perhaps you were just kidding when you called the animals in your picture polar bears?

Once again, your trip report has -- and all previous posts you've made about Alaska have -- been very interesting to me. Now having 18 days in Alaska under my belt I have some degree of envy for you living there.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Whitney Fan #33650 10/05/13 11:02 AM
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Flat Top is great just because its so close to my house-15 minutes. And variations are easy to stay away from the crowds if desired. But Flat Top REALLY is great during the winter. My toughest Flat Top hike by far was Thanksgiving morning last year. I didn't take Katoohlas because there wasn't much snow and the rocks were icy. It was scary coming down.

Complete bummer about Denali this summer. We had a beautiful summer with so much sun. You must have been very unlucky.

We visited Wrangell Elias Labor Day weekend for the first time. First getting there was quite a trek. A nine hour drive with the last 60 miles on a tough dirt road taking 3 hours. Camped right on the river outside McCarthy and visited Kennecott Mine. Also got a whitewater trip in and swam (in a drysuit) in a glacier lake.

Regarding the two polar bears up on the hill. Some may argue that they are goats or dall sheep. wink

I've only lived here in Alaska 20 months and there is still so much to do. Glad you were able to enjoy it for a bit this summer.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Chicagocwright #33654 10/05/13 04:14 PM
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That may have been a long drive to Wrangell-St. Elias but I'm betting you'll agree with me that the Glenn Highway is SPECTACULAR. (I did a 560 mile driving day which included it -- from Fairbanks back to Anchorage via Wrangell - St. Elias (round trip from Glennallen to Chitina, see below)).

I covered a mile or two of the road to McCarthy. I had found on Google "street view" here in Las Vegas that one could technically enter the actual boundary of the national park on that road shortly after crossing the Chitina River, and that except for a very short section it was paved.

"Goats or Dalls sheep" was EXACTLY what I was thinking when I saw your picture!

If I were to live in Alaska it would HAVE to be in Anchorage with you, simply because I'm such a restaurant freak.

You lucky guy -- you've got the Moose's Tooth! (And if you want to get crazy, Chillkoot Charlie's!)

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Chicagocwright #33655 10/05/13 06:09 PM
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Chicagocwright – Great write-up and great photos of what must have been a spectacular trip! It really seems like it was a new adventure around every corner! I'll look forward to your trip report after you go back there and try one of those ice cave escape plans you wrote about(!).

At first I couldn't figure out the shovel until I read more closely. Major LNT points for Ross. Plus, he's got a new shovel.

I hiked up Flat Top several years ago in May when there was still a good snow pack towards the top. I guess we had a touch of summit fever... it was pretty dicey, especially coming down like your Thanksgiving hike. Later we learned that someone was hurt after slipping and falling there a few days before.

Whitney Fan – Moose Tooth Pizza, YES! When I saw your post it occurred to me that I happen to be wearing my Bear Tooth Grill T-shirt as I write this. (Same owners, apparently climbers who have spent some time in the Alaska Range). But what really tops the list for me when I think about Anchorage is the fresh halibut and salmon everywhere you go. Well, I also think about the proximity to all that great adventure just waiting to be had!

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Whitney Fan #33656 10/05/13 06:35 PM
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The Glenn Hwy is indeed spectacular although I haven't been all the way to Fairbanks that direction. Going past Denali on the other side is amazing. If you went a couple miles on McCarthy Road I'm assuming you crossed the bridge and saw the water wheels? Moose's Tooth is a hiker's favorite after a long day.

I've done plenty of May summits of Flattop---but never without an ice axe! That is actually my favorite time--and then glissading straight down the chute! The problem with the Thanksgiving trip was that there was no snow to cushion falls.

Ross is back in California now and almost left the shovel at the Eagle River Nature Center trailhead. But after all that work---I claimed it for myself.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Chicagocwright #33666 10/06/13 09:07 PM
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Interesting comments about the snow on Flat Top. I climbed it on June 10 and there was still quite a bit of snow. I guess I hiked through at least 7 snow fields. No special equipment or shoes -- and I fell on my keister probably 7 times too! But I didn't see anyone else with any special equipment either.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Whitney Fan #33667 10/06/13 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted By: Whitney Fan
Interesting comments about the snow on Flat Top. I climbed it on June 10 and there was still quite a bit of snow. I guess I hiked through at least 7 snow fields. No special equipment or shoes -- and I fell on my keister probably 7 times too! But I didn't see anyone else with any special equipment either.


Maybe you didn't even notice the katoohlas?

In early April I took my boys (14 and 15) up Flat Top on a training hike. I really did not expect to make it to the summit but wanted to teach them kickstepping and self arrest with ice axe. The idea was to get them used to the skills to do bigger hikes in the future. Well one they wore snow boots instead of hiking shoes which made kick-stepping very difficult. They both managed well. Toward the summit where it gets very steep and the rocks are not showing in the deep snow it is particularly difficult. I gave my oldest son the katoohlas and he made it the final several hundred feet to the top. My youngest son nearly made it to top 3 TIMES, sliding back 100 feet or so each attempt. It was safe because the snow was so deep and soft and it would be difficult to get hurt. But he was becoming exasperated. I finally got behind him with my ice and provided a backstop for him to make the summit.

So the payoff is jumping right off the summit straight down into the long glissade. I told each boy the importance of not tumbling in order to avoid breaking a limb or separating shoulder. The oldest went down no problem. The youngest went next and seemed to roll, tumble, somersault the entire chute. I watched from atop and saw him give me a wave knowing he was okay. It happened to be his 14th birthday.

I was next and off I went. The snow flew into my face as I slid and I sort of began to choke on the powder snow coughing as I finished.

Here is the chute. You can't see over the edge.


On our way up. You stay to the right of the rocks and it is very steep but safe.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Chicagocwright #33671 10/06/13 10:40 PM
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What a cool experience with your boys!

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
NoUglyOneYet #33673 10/07/13 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted By: NoUglyOneYet
What a cool experience with your boys!


This is practically our backyard! It is so cool! The youngest son has something like 20 Flat Top summit hikes in just over a year living year. I'm starting to stretch him. One summer hike we went off trail pretty much straight up. Had a little bit of climbing with exposure that he did great on. A fall would have REALLY hurt but most likely not life threatening.

I compare living in Anchorage to being in Yosemite Valley. There are so many world class trailheads minutes away from our house.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Chicagocwright #33707 10/09/13 05:37 PM
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Thanks for sharing the TR and pictures Chicago. Alaska has such stunning scenery. I have to ask though, are those really polar bears or are you pulling our chain? The "bears" are so small and fuzzy in the picture, I'm trying to decide whether they're real or you took a picture of some goats and messing with us. :-) If you weren't kidding...AWESOME.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Anonymous1 #33708 10/09/13 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted By: 2600fromatari
Thanks for sharing the TR and pictures Chicago. Alaska has such stunning scenery. I have to ask though, are those really polar bears or are you pulling our chain? The "bears" are so small and fuzzy in the picture, I'm trying to decide whether they're real or you took a picture of some goats and messing with us. :-) If you weren't kidding...AWESOME.


These are mountain goats. Dall sheep are very similar and also always in the area. This was mostly a joke for my friends in the Lower 48 who kid me about living in igloos, fighting off polar bears, and having lunch with Sarah Palin all the time.

Since I made the joke I had to research a little to confirm my assumption that there was NO WAY polar bears would be way up on a mountain or separated very far from ice and the sea.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Chicagocwright #37696 06/20/14 09:58 AM
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Headed to Crow Pass tomorrow. I hope to post a Crow Pass 2014.

My mother asked me a question a couple days regarding keeping a journal of my hikes and adventures. I do not but realized my trip reports on forums serve as my journal.

What do others do?

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
Chicagocwright #37701 06/20/14 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted By: Chicagocwright
What do others do?


I recently started a blog:
http://www.hikinggeek.com/

It basically reflects what I post on the forums.

Re: Crow Pass, Alaska 2013
63ChevyII.com #37703 06/20/14 11:24 AM
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I've never thought about starting a blog but wish I would have years ago to have all my trip reports in one spot.

So Wordpress seems to provide 3 GB free, 13 GB for $99/year, and unlimited for $299/year. Do I understand that correctly? I would rather not pay anything but 3 GB won't be enough and 13 probably won't be in the long run.


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