Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Mt. Whitney - Main Trail - May 6-8

Hi Everyone!

My friend and I are hiking the main trail May 6-8. I understand there will be a significant amount of snow so we will be bringing crampons and ice axes along with snow shoes. A few questions for anyone willing to answer:

1. If we depart Whitney Portal parking lot (trailhead) before sunrise on May 7, can we get to trail camp before sunset?
2. The plan is to depart Saturday morning, arrive at trail camp, and summit/return to our car on Sunday - does that sound doable?

Any other tips or ideas are appreciated! Also, if anyone wants to join us, I have two extra spots.

Thanks,

E

One additional question ... the 'chute' is part of the main trail, correct?

Thanks,

E

Hi, I have been looking for a climbing partner for a while, At this stage I will be doing the main trail on the 6th may whitney portal starting around 2 am. Im going to try and just make it a day hike with a couple a acclimatization hikes leading up to it. Its my understanding that the chute is to the right of the switchbacks on the main trail and is the alternative and recommended route early season.

Eric, spending a night not only allows acclimatization, but also puts you in perfect position to assess conditions at the base while you're (presumably) fresh & ready to go. By conditions, I mean both overall with respect to weather, and of course specific to snow/ice.

The Chute is to the west (right looking from Trail camp) of the 99 switchbacks. You want to be at the base at first [strong/warm] light - say between 6-7am, so that the snow/ice begins to just barely soften a bit. If it's still icy, then it will be hard to kick-step with your crampons, plus it's dangerous as hell if you slip ie tough to self-arrest if your axe can't bite, plus nice & slick for maximum bodily velocity. So, hang out for 5-10-15 minutes while constantly checking conditions. Once it's soft(er), you can both kick-step + bury your ice axe as an anchor on each stride.

Overall, you need to get up to Trail crest, hike the 4 miles (round-trip) along the snow/ice western ridge to the summit, and get back to the Chute before it begins to ice up again in the afternoon.

For Newclimber, the main trail as an early season day hike with snow/ice conditions is pretty tough. In fact, I wouldn't recommend it. (Experienced climbers) can do the MR as a day hike since it's only 5 miles to Iceberg. In other words, you can leave the parking lot around 3-4am and be at the base of the Gully between 6-7am - just as snow/ice conditions get perfect. Likewise on the descent, since the Gully faces due east and has the Notch above it, the sun stays on the snow until the afternoon. So, it stays soft enough to safely plunge step back down. (Of course, this assumes it's a nice sunny day - if a storm or cold front is moving in, then conditions can obviously change for the [much] worse.)

When we did the MR last year, we spent one night @ Boyscout, and I was thoroughly worked. But, since the main trail is approx twice as long as the MR, and the conditions on the Chute are more difficult than the Gully in the afternoon (it faces north-east with Mt Muir casting a large shadow), you're going to be way more tired - maybe exhausted - just when it's most important to get back down that sucker to safety. Perhaps the biggest problem is you won't have an out - you can't use the switchbacks, and you can't stay on the ridge. So you have to get down.

You sure you want to do that, rather than spend the prior night within 1 mile of the base of the Chute, have a nice relaxed start, and then get back down to Trail camp by 1pm? If the issue is an overnight permit, I can practically guarantee you can get a walk-in before June.

Here's the Chute from the Lone Pine side of Trail crest from a few years ago around June 5. It's too melted out to descend (safely), switchbacks just opened (still lots of snow/ice, especially at the Cables, but passable):

Hi Hobbes,

the reason I have chosen to attempt it as a day hike is mainly due to the limited time and equipment we have in the US as we are travelling from Australia.
People have mentioned that it can get dangerous after the snow ices in the afternoon but I guess I didn't realise how much of an issue it could be.
I intend on turning back even if I don't make the summit if conditions are not favourable. On a day with reasonable weather what would you say are the times you should be approaching the key points, eg we already spoke about making it to the chute 6-7. trail crest by 9.?
summit by 11? trail crest on your return by 12.30? etc etc.
And what time do you think should be the turn around if you did not make it to the summit to get back down safely?

That's a good schedule. If you make it to Trail crest, obviously note the time, say 9am. After that keep track of how long you're walking along the west ridge. If you're going 1mph, you'll reach the summit @ 11am. If not, that's your turn-around time regardless, because you should be shooting for a return by 1pm at the latest.

To tell you the truth, for people coming from further away and with limited time, if the conditions aren't favorable, it's sort of a cluster-fvck. It's one thing to attempt in the summer, but another thing in the winter/spring.

IMO, a much, much better option that provides as much Sierra beauty as possible, and is (as near as can be in the Sierra) completely safe, is to simply hike up to Kearsarge pass. (TH is just 15 miles north of Lone Pine.) Other than Horseshoe meadows, this might be the best acclimatization hike anyway.

It's a little under 5 miles to the top, starts @ 9k and tops at 11.8k. So, warmer, less snow, lower elevations, no equipment necessary (maybe micro-spikes with trail runners; heavy lugged boots solo should be fine). And the views are perhaps the best in the entire range - looking west from the top into Kings Canyon Nat'l Park:

Wow, can't thank you enough for the help! What would be your recommended schedule if we get to Whitney Portal Parking Lot on Friday night after work?

Also - I'm in pretty good shape (29 years old) and I've done a few tough hikes. Is it crazy to attempt this hike if I'm not that experienced in snow/ice and I don't have time to do practice hikes? Or should I just go for it?

ericploeb: Go for it. If you don't make it, just make sure you turn back before you commit to more than you can handle. The mountain will always be there, you have lots of years ahead of you to gain knowledge and experience.

Several items: To get a permit, you need stop at the Visitor Center in Lone Pine. They will do night-drop box, if you call the Wilderness Permit number: 760-873-2483. (Call several days before you go to find out your options.)

Altitude may be your biggest issue. Get some Diamox, take it starting the night and morning before you drive up. If it is going to, AMS will set in after spending a night at Trail Camp.

Most people can make Trail camp in 6 to 8 hours with a normal overnight backpack. No need to start before dawn.

Ice and ice axe use: Make SURE you can descend what you go up!
Watching this video by the British Mountaineering Council is mandatory:
  Mt Whitney hiking and climbing videos   Another good one:  Ice Axe Technique
Related: Glissading from Trail Crest and hazards
Trip report with glissading video on Whitney: 6/1/2014 Dayhike Summit by beginner hikers

Like Steve said, go for it. It only gets sketch at the Chute. Up until that point, you're still gonna be in 'Whitney Canyon' (my name), which in itself is a very beautiful hike. You don't hear much about it, because everyone is intent on either getting up, or getting down. But if you have a chance to really look around think about where you are, it's one of the more incredible sections of the range.

If you drive up Friday night, I wouldn't bother with a night drop. I've done it before myself, but in this case you're going to have all day Saturday just to make base camp (ie Trail camp). If you arrive in Lone Pine after 9pm, I would just drive up to Tuttle creek and crash. Any earlier, drive a little further to Whitney portal. Sat morning, no rush, go down and get your permit, get a big breakfast, and then leisurely head up the trail around noon. (Of course, this schedule might get screwed up with the road work - figure that out, and adjust accordingly.)

Even if you go really slow, you'll probably make Trail camp before 5-6pm. So ... now you gots nothin' to do. Well, go over to the Chute and practice a little bit on self-arrest, maybe kick-stepping with crampons. No need for an early bedtime, because you're right there, so there's not gonna be an "alpine start" ie pre-dawn start to get where you want to be at the right time for optimal snow/ice conditions. Maybe get up around 5:30am, boil some water, have some tea, maybe some broth.

Check out the situation. Keep an eye on weather and poke around the snow/ice a bit. When the sun begins (That is, if it's out - if there's a storm around, you might already begin to plan on bailing. After all, this ain't a summer situation, where even then you gotta keep a weather eye.) to warm up the snow/ice surface, put on your gear and get ready to go.

Once you're up, just make sure to get back to Trail crest as early as you can, maybe no later than 1pm. This is generally good advice even in summer, but an early season hike like this, don't plan on spending more than 10-20 minutes at the summit.

Once you're safely back down to Trail camp, it's a pretty straightforward return. There's gonna still be snow/ice, but there will be tracks to follow. Every step you take back is a step further down in elevation ie warmer, less snow, closer to your car.

I can't thank you two enough! I'm getting more excited with each post I read.

What pants do you recommend bringing (for hiking and sleeping)? Will I be okay with my regular, water-resistant Prana's and gaiters? Or should I get water proof pants to throw over?

I think I have all of the gear I need but any input is appreciated! I have:
- Thermals (top and bottoms)
- Hiking Pants (water resistant)
- Synthetic down jacket (Pategonia nano puff)
- Waterproof shell
- Hat/gloves/socks
- Crampons/ice axe/snow shoes
- Water purifier
- Sleeping bag/mat

Thanks! Food recommendations are welcome as well!

Hey all, I have a May 6-8 permit as well. As for pants I'm bringing softshell arcteryx with OR Expedition Crocodile gaiters. I don't think full hardshell is warranted.

My concern is such: I have a military background so I tend to be overprepared, but is bringing rope rescue equipment overkill for the main trail?

IMO, if you're spending the night @ Trail camp, it's not that big of deal to overpack. Unlike many other multi-night backpacking trips, Whitney isn't that far from your car. So, if you bring too much gear, it's not like you have to hoof it around for days cursing the weight. In addition, you'll be leaving a lot behind at base camp, so the final ascent can be much lighter.

For cold conditions, I take:
- thermal top/bottom
- long pants, shirt, fleece & gloves
- down jacket, beanie
- rain/snow pants/jacket
- Goretex mountaineering boots, crampons & OR gaiters
- ice axe, whippet & helmet

If it's initially cold, but looks like it will warm up (eg super clear with the sun blasting off the snow pack), you might consider taking your backpack as your summit/day pack. That way, you'll have enough room to strip and stash a lot of your clothing, rather than suffer sweating to death.

Rain/snow pants/jacket aren't just for rain & snow. If it's really windy with cold gusts, you're gonna want a shell to help block the wind.

Take the rope. Again, it's only around 6 miles r/t (via the Chute - the switchbacks add more distance) to the summit from Trail camp, so it's not really a big deal carrying a little extra weight. The rope, however, isn't going to be that useful without harness, carabiners, cams, etc. But, if someone did happen to slip & fall (most likely along the snow/ice encrusted western ridge), then you would have something to at least throw. Odds are probably one-in-a-million, but again, no weight penalty for such a short distance just in case.

The newest forecast shows a storm moving in Fri April 22, so it might be a little too close for my initial thoughts about Wed 4/20. In that case, if any of you have an extra spot, May 7/8 is looking better.

Take crampons and an axe. Boots suitable for step-in crampons work best. Ski poles are a huge help where it isn’t steep enough to need the axe (everywhere except the “chute”). Nobody ever takes a rope on the main trail. And cams? There is no place to set a cam anywhere on that route.

I think you misunderstood. The rope isn't for me, rather so I could be an asset for anyone else that might need help, since the nearest SAR assets could be hours away. And in saying equipment I mean harnesses, hardware and webbing for rock and snow anchors. Not just a standalone rope. Best Regards.

PDFR, nice of you to think about others in need. But even SAR people don't use that equipment in the Whitney area that I know of. Injuries are typically sprained ankles, or things serious enough to require stretchers, and sometimes helicopter evacs.

Awesome - what do you recommend in terms of water purification systems/pills? Any thoughts for the a sleeping pad as well?

Thanks!

Eric

PDFR: Yeah, nice of you to think of others, and I don't know what your certs are, but the odds of you needing that gear, even for someone else, weighed against the potential liability and the local avaialbilty of top SAR orgs (Inyo Sheriff, SEKI, CHP, and China Lake) make it superfluous. Basic first aid and Communication capability - InReach etc - makes much more sense.

good to know, I guess I'll have to get used to carrying a light pack from now on. Haha and as for certs... yeah the military didn't issue those lol. Anyways see ya'll at the summit in 2 weeks.

As for water, I usually just boil water from a running source. If you want to filter, I've enjoyed the MSR pumps filters a lot. Never been a big fan of pills. As for pads, I rock the Big Agnes Q-Core SL in mummy config. I'd highly recommend that or the insulated version if you get cold.