I know there are tons of write-ups on the MR and MWT already, so I'll try to spare you from the details unless you are hiking for the first time, in which case just let me know and I will gladly share more info. Just to give you some background, there was a group of six of us total and we are all in relatively good shape with decent route-finding ability and pretty extensive climbing experience (at least indoor). Regardless, taking the MR and MWT as a day-hike is a challenge and should not be taken lightly.
We hit the trailhead at 4am and hit the E Ledges before sunrise. I'm not sure if it was because we were under headlamps or if we found an easier route, but the ledges were surprisingly easy and didn't phaze any of us in the least.
We decided to bypass Lower Boy Scout Lake due to a large rise in the number of mosquitos at sunrise. That meant a stop at the waterfall before the pyramid boulder and granite slabs to refill on water. The various cairns led the way all the way to the chute just past the water seep below Iceberg Lake. Fortunately, we chose the correct chute (thanks to the cairns) and were up refilling water again at Iceberg by 11am.
Looking up from Iceberg, you can clearly see the "easier" path to take over the boulders on the left (same ascent to approach the East Buttress). Though the terrain is more exposed and steep, anyone with at least V0 experience bouldering, should have no trouble at all on the countless "bomber" holds and feet. Here is where things started to get tricky for our group. We had to split into three groups of two as a few were beginning to experience early and differing signs of AMS (headaches, nausea and vomiting) as well as cramping. The plan was to quickly summit and then head down to curb the symptoms. We powered through with additional motivation from some rain clouds in the distance. The forecast called for a 50% chance of thunderstorms after 11am and we were pushing 12:30pm at the time! After the long, will-testing ascent through the East Couloir, at last we were at the final 400 foot North face. This is by and far the most enjoyable portion of the MR and despite the fatigue and sickness, we managed to find four different routes up to the top. I think I took a V2 level boulder climb to the summit (it's to the far left corner), which in hindsight wasn't the smartest idea with a pack on your back.
Worth noting is that one of our six had puked five times by the time she made it to the top with hopes of immediately descending down MWT to get back to lower altitude. If this happens in your group, I recommend 2 or more immediately descending (not summit-ing) and taking the optional class 3 scramble back down to the top of the East Couloir (had we known this existed on Saturday, this would have been our choice for our very sick friend). The top 2.5 miles of the MWT loses very little elevation and the symptoms don't really subside until past Trail Crest and even farther down the switchbacks (such was the case for the three in our group with AMS). If you have some sort of rope, a simple belay down the slippery East Couloir would be my recommendation as you can lose a quick 1500-2000 feet down to Iceberg Lake in a jiffy.
Back to the trail. After obligatory photos at the summit we began our descent around 1:30pm. This is the absolute latest anyone should consider heading down if you're doing the day-hike. Compounded with the AMS and a severe sprain to one of our members with 4 miles to go, we didn't end up finishing until 11pm (averaging 1 mph for the last four miles didn't help). Those switchbacks under headlamps are tortuous! Also, you miss out on quite a pretty trail they've set-up near the bottom of the MWT.
I think we're all glad it's over (the endless descent at least), but even just two days out, I'm already itching to go back and conquer the East Buttress with gear and rope. Soon!
Last edited by joel; 08/06/12 04:14 PM.
