Mt Whitney Zone Forums Trip Reports April 6-8 : know how to self-arrest!!

First off, thanks to those who replied to my earlier post. I did climb up during the weekend of April 6-8. I made it all the way to the top of the gully and topped off around 14,138 feet. I was unable to find boot tracks to the summit and more over had a scary fall on the icy traverse behind the mountain. I slipped for around 50-60 feet before my ice axe dug in while self arresting.

Equipment taken:
1. 2 person tent
2. Mountaineering plastic boots
3. Ice axe and crampons
4. Water filter
5. "Big fluffy" (down jacket) - the best thing ever!!!

Departed around 11am from Whitney portal trailhead and made it to UBSL by 5pm with a partner. Camped there and met "Crazy" Gregg (I gave him the nickname because it was crazy to see a man walking around bare chested and with tennis shoes and only an ice axe - and he was going to run back to the trail head the same evening after reaching UBSL). The trail was in overall great condition with very minimal post-holing. I was glad to have carried in my plastic boots as they kept my feet very dry and warm. Also, we kept to the left of the stream and pretty much bypassed the E Ledges for the most part. My partner decided to call it quits as he was experiencing signs of altitude sickness. So while he camped in, I left the next morning at 6am for the summit. I reached the top of the gully at 12:00pm and was surprised that there was no one ahead of me or behind me on what seemed like an excellent day to summit. Gorgeously clear skies, light winds and perfect temps. There were a couple of guys climbing up the East Face direct but no one on MR. When I reached the top of the gully, I saw some boot tracks and followed it around the back of the mountain. Immediately I was faced with an icy patch that refused to let my crampons grab on. I somehow managed to cross it by holding on the adjacent rock and treading cautiously. But somehow this kept bothering me and I was unable to take it off my mind. I looked around for the notch to climb up but didnt find any boot tracks leading up - instead I found boot tracks traversing all the way around the mountain and that just looked like a long hard slog. At 12:30 after trying to find a suitable way up, I decided to return instead of falling victim to summit fever. The icy patch I crossed was still playing on my mind and as I came to the same on the way back, I decided to repeat the process of holding onto adjacent rocks and treading cautiously. At some point, the ice under my right foot cracked and gave way - before I knew what happened I was sliding down the steep face. I was on my side and was trying hard to get into self arrest position but the ice axe wouldnt bite into the hard ice that formed from multiple melt and refreeze cycles. Things were happening at lightening speed and I had only one goal in mind to stop!! I put my entire body weight on the ice axe and finally came to a stop amidst some rocks. I lay there for a few seconds trying to make sense of what had happened. I wiggled my fingers and toes to ensure that I hadnt broken anything - everything good. I then slowly turned myself to see where I was - wasnt too far from the edge of the precipice. Another 150 feet or so and I would be in freefall!!



I sat there for a while trying to gather my thoughts and then I tried to look up and see an alternate way. Adrenaline was still pumping hard to feel any pain or fear anything. I found an alternate way around the icy patch and made quick work of the way back to the top of the gully. It was then an uneventful return back to UBSL campsite. There I met my partner and we headed back to the trailhead. On the way back we missed the streamcrossing from E Ledges and were temporarily lost for 15 minutes. Luckily I spotted "Crazy" Gregg and yelled out to him. This time again he was hiking around in shorts and a day pack!!! He quickly spotted me and showed me the way back - much thanks to him!! He was a god send at that moment! My partner and I then slogged our way back to the trailhead and got into the car for our trip back to Lone Pine.



Once back in our motel, I had a chance to examine my injuries from the fall and while it was nothing serious, the entire left side of my body had scratches and bruises from the slide onto the rocks. My brand new helment has nice scratches and the ice axe is now legendary in my eyes!!

Scary but all ends well!! In hindsight looking at the pictures, if I had known better I would have walked around the icy patch by hiking down and then back up!! Next time!!!

You are very, very lucky Chicago. It's a happy trip if you make it back in one piece. Next time you go, "The Notch" is right at the exit of the chute/gulley. As soon as you top out, you'll only walk another 10-20 ft. The wall staring at you is the final 400/500 you have to do.

I have never done that traverse, and never will. It looks easier in pictures, but gives me the willies in real life. I can feel the fear reading your report. Count your blessings, as I believe that traverse has claimed a few folks. Congrats on an adventure and making it back in one piece.

Wow, Chicago! So glad your ice axe skills were sharp! And thanks for the good report. Do you have more pictures we can see?

Here's the picture showing the notch and the route up from there. It sounds like you followed the bottom horizontal line on around. Most people take the left most line, with some crossing on that second right-hand diagonal.

The mountain will always be there. Come back and finish it sometime.

Click the picture for the full size.

Thanks Steve. I wish I had looked at this picture earlier - it would have become so obvious. I do have some more pics which I can post when I get back home but if you are interested in a detailed trip report, here it is Know how to self arrest!!

Hi Chicagosky,

We met very briefly at UBSL. You were holding a water filter; I pointed you to a source of unfrozen water near the UBSL outlet. We were the three guys building a snow shelter---also a part of the Caltech group.

As the others mentioned, after the notch you only needed to go about ~20 feet and make an immediate left up the wall. While going up is somewhat straight forward, coming down is a bit dicey, especially with mountaineering boots.

The vast of majority of the nearly 30 Caltech climbers rappelled down the final 400 in a series of three pitches.

D

Hi D

Yes, I remember you folks building some squarish igloo kinda thing. I am glad you folks got to summit. I'll be back again soon

Hey Dero, were those rappels from fixed stations or did your partners leave their own gear. Basically I'm wondering if there are any fixed anchors on the north side to get back down to the MR that anyone knows of.
Thanks