Heading up there this weekend. Any intel on current conditions? Specifically curious about the final 400... feels like we're in-between seasons (i.e. how much snow will really be left?).
Thank you in advance

Debating on the mountaineers route myself for June 12-13th. Please post a trip report on the conditions if you end up doing it.

Much appreciated and good luck

definitely will. feeling like I wish I went a few weeks ago or was waiting a few more weeks to go but maybe it'll be great, fingers cross

Hi Martin,
I did the mountaineers route last Sunday and Monday. The final 400 had patches of snow which we avoided by going up the first chute on the left side the entire way up. On the gully approach from iceberg lake we went up the on the right side which is a complete snow field. We left around 8:30 and both of us used crampons and had an ice ax. Some people avoided most of the snow by going up on the traditional left side but still had to cross a snow field at the junction of the two sides as the gully narrows. The snow field at that time of the day was icy and steep. Above the final approach to the notch was dry. Hope that helps.

Right on Terence, appreciate it

Terrance. Did you see any big need for you guys to be roped together. All just regular class three scrambling.

Any advice on where people camp near a consistent water source and out of the elements?

RE: final 400 climb. I did not rope in. On a trip years ago I went with 3 others and we roped in. They felt more comfortable doing it that way. I suggest you look at pics and some videos from this forum to see what the final 400 looks like. That would help you determine how you would approach the climb. FYI depending on the chute and route, some of it is class 4 and with some exposure.
As far as camping. Upper Boy Scout lake is nice spot with easy access to water. Iceberg Lake is also good but is more exposed to the elements, a bit higher up and has easy water access.

WB: Here are some links for the MR:

Mountaineers Route info links within...

Anyone know the elevation of the Ebersbacher Ledges?

Using Gmap4, zooming in on the foxtail pine at the start, then switching to topo, the contour is 2940 m, so 9650 ft.

Gmap4 link.

Any current info on the snow(if any) above iceberg lake? Heading up the last Sunday in June. Thanks

There should be a dry path all the way to the summit by then. Snow remains longer in the center of the chute below the notch, but most people just use the rocky section left of the chute for some distance.

Thanks for the info. I'm looking forward to a great trip.

Anyone have any snow updates...particularly at Iceberg lake and in the chute?

Was there enough clear ground to camp at Iceberg?

Can anyone add to my calculations?

Whitney Portal (8,640') to Ebersbacher Ledges (9,500') = 1 1/3 mi
900' elevation gain

E-Ledges to Lower Boyscout Lake (10,335') = 2/3 mile/2 mi
800'/1700' elevation gain

LBSL to Upper Boyscout Lake (11,320') = 1 mile/3 mi
1,000'/2700'

UBSL to Iceberg Lake (12,631') = 1 mile/4 mi
1,300'/4,000'

I'll be cancelling 3 overnight permits for the Mountaineers Route soon. Entry date = 8-5-14. If someone wants these permits let me know when to cancel so you can be ready to book them.

Can someone offer me more info on the route from Clyde Meadows up to Iceberg lake? I'd like to see a picture with a route drawn on the picture.

The key is, as you approach Upper Boy Scout Lake, you go left (south) around a ridge so that as you approach Iceberg Lake you have Pinnacle Ridge on your left and this ridge on your right. But you will find a use trail the whole way. When you get close to Iceberg Lake, you can choose to stay on sand and approach it from the south, or climb the lake's headwall (a little class 3) and approach from the southeast.

You'll find a picture if you Google "Clyde Meadow Mountaineer's Route."

The use trail is easily followed in that section. Make sure to follow the rock cairns all the way and you will have trouble getting lost.

Just came across this photo, it shows that section fairly well. Upper Boy Scout lower right, Iceberg right of center.

http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?dpid=Oj81OzglISMrIA,,

Not a picture, but map with gpx route (can be downloaded). Select open cycle map for topo info. You may have to register for the site to download the gpx, but there is no cost, and gives you access to lots of routes.

http://my.viewranger.com/route/details/MTIzNzk%3D

Frank, I assume you have reviewed Mountaineers Route info links within...

Specifically, you are asking about this section of videos starting with the last one in Part 4

Here... I clicked off a route using Gmap4 and its aerial satellite view. I think I got most of the route down pretty well. Just don't use it for exact waypoints.

Gmap4 view: route from LBSL to Iceberg Lake

And here is a Gmap4 view with an actual gps track: MR - Main Trail loop. The kmz file can be downloaded here.

Comparing the two lines, I see my click-map was off course in a few spots, especially near UBSL.

In a PM, RF wrote:


Frank, here is a zoom in on the above Gmap4 map with gps track, in the area where you finally climb out of the trough below Iceberg lake up to the lake:
  Map Link.
Please play with it: Zoom in and out, switch between the "s Aerial Google Satellite" version and the "T4 Topo High" version (t4 zooms out about 4 clicks from the closest satellite view). Note how the track went up on one of the wet "seeps", and descended. Stay below the seeps, and walk past them! Where the track finally ascends is the right place.

And here is that picture, on which I have drawn a red line showing approximately the same route.
Click on it for the full size view:


The picture just doesn't show the detail that the Gmap4 satellite view gives. In fact, with the above map link, zoom in to the closest version -- you can see the actual foot paths, and tents and rock shelters at Iceberg. The blue track shows the hiker was TOO high near the seeps. They even tried to climb one seep and then retreated. STAY LOW, until you get past the seeps. Along the way when you hike, you will see some really tall cairns -- some of them are too high on the slope too. When you hike, if there are choices between two use-paths, choose the lower one. When you finally get to the area where that last (gray colored) moraine meets the more brown rock, the final ascent actually veers eastward and climbs a gulley-like area of more weathered rock.

Steve, I can't thank you enough. Just as you said, the map link shows lots of detail. Thanks!

Oi Frank,

The section I was most concerned about was taking the right gully up to Iceberg Lake from the moraines.

The "gully" is class 2, its very sandy winding up through some ledges (firmly sandy class 2 though) you should see LOADS of footprints in the sand.

It's very easy to find.

Thanks for the info. I tend to over prepare.

Another question: I'll be camped at Iceberg Lake and plan to return via the Mountaineers Route. Should I take my hiking poles up from Iceberg Lake? Typically I depend on them to ease the strain on my hips, knees, and ankles.

Yeah, they'll be invaluable coming down the chossy Mountaineers Chute.