The Dog and Cat Death Valley TR 2011 - 03/10/11 04:24 PM
When I planned this trip to DV, I really had no clue how much fun it would wind up being. My winter getaways to Death Valley have always been solo in the past, but that was getting kind of boring. As it happened, I met John Whitworth (catpappy) several months ago through the WPS and WZ boards. John lives just a few miles from me in the northwest burbs of Atlanta - talk about the power of the boards to bring people together! Over the fall and winter we went for a few hikes at a local mountain and before long this DV trip had turned into a joint adventure for the two of us.
We flew to Vegas together on 3/2 and before nightfall had our camp set up at Texas Springs in Death Valley. The next morning we headed for the charcoal kilns and the Wildrose Peak trailhead. We were geared up with snow boots, full gaiters and micro-spikes in case the snow got deep as we went above 9000 feet. As it turned out, we were able to handle the snow in just boots, so the gaiters and spikes stayed in our packs. The last mile to the summit the snow was fairly deep, at least to my Georgia sensibilities (6-8 inches), and we had to search for the trail at times. John has more experience in snow than I do, so a running joke began with him referring to it as "patchy" and me seeing it as "pretty damn heavy".
As we were coming from the east with zero acclimation for 9000 feet, we took it slow and steady, topping out on the summit about noon. We were almost immediately joined by two women, Carla and Sheila from Massachusetts and Oregon, who were right behind us. As best as we could tell, we were the only four on the mountain that day - we encountered no one else all day long. The four of us had lunch on the summit and enjoyed the crystal clear, stunning views of Badwater and Mt. Charleston to the east and the Inyos and snowy Sierra to the west. I spotted Bob R and Kevin R in the summit register, which was neat.
The following day, we were joined at our campsite by Laura Molnar (MooseTracks), Chris Sistrunk (SoCalGirl), Jim Freeland (SierraGator) and Harlan Stockman (not on either Whitney board, but a member of SummitPost - a very strong climber and wonderful guy). Jim's presence was a nice surprise. I had not seen him since finally meeting him at the Portal last summer, but we've been Facebook friends since and have sparred good-naturedly all winter about SEC football (the Bulldogs and Gators are bitter rivals, for those of you unfamiliar with that particular dynamic - another testament to the power of the mountains to bring people together). Chris has also been a FB friend for quite a while, so it was great being able to finally meet her in person. One helluva sense of humor! John was finally able to meet Jim and Chris. He had met Laura during the Kent Ashcraft memorial hike and cookout a few years back, so they were finally reunited! Chris had come up from San Diego, Harlan from Las Vegas, Laura from Bishop and Jim from Lake Isabella - there were quite a few miles driven (or flown) to make this little party happen!
Sidebar: Joe Quillan (quillansculpture) was originally slated to join us for this weekend, but honey-dos apparently got in the way. Joe, we missed you - and you missed a great time!
The next morning we all headed for Corkscrew Peak to meet Tom Brown (tomcat_rc) and Bob Pickering. The group gathering this day was primarily the result of a Facebook chat Laura and I had a few weeks back, and Tom's presence was also arranged through a FB chat. John is not a member of FB, but after this trip I expect to see him set up an account soon (be-friend him, folks - he's one helluva guy). It was great seeing Tomcat again! Bob Pickering and I had been corresponding by e-mail for quite a while, and it was a pleasure to finally meet him in person. He drove from Reno to join us, and I appreciated that greatly - especially since the next day was his wife's birthday and he had to turn right around and drive back to Reno after the hike. Bob surprised me by sporting a Georgia Bulldogs shirt for the hike, which confused the hell out of John, who was wearing his Georgia Tech gear. Add Jim's signature Florida Gators cap, and we had quite an interesting group with four of us outfitted in southern college football attire! Did I mention something about the power of the mountains overcoming other obstacles? Laura just shook her head .
As we were gearing up, we were surprised when Bob Rockwell arrived, along with Dave Gillanders and Arold Green. Sheer coincidence, but it was great meeting Bob R, fresh off his Kilimanjaro summit last month. I've really enjoyed the narratives that Bob has made available (in particular, his first Whitney summit story, his Denali experience, and his race to the Whitney summit against the younger ultra-marathoners), and it was an honor to finally shake his hand.
Our two groups headed across the desert towards Corkscrew, but between adding layers, removing layers, stopping for photos, pacing, etc., we were soon spread out into several groups. Jim, Harlan and Tom wanted to tag Little Corkscrew first so they went to the left while the rest of us bore to the right. The weather was great and it was a very enjoyable morning.
After about 2000 feet of gain, my legs were feeling a bit fatigued, especially after Wildrose two days prior. I have a problem in approaching western gains in that I have a naturally quick hiking pace. That doesn't present too much of a problem here in the south where a hike is typically an up-down-up-down-up-down kind of thing: gain 1000 feet, lose 400, gain 500, lose 300, etc. The consistent uphills of the west can't be replicated here locally, so I try to consciously maintain a durable pace when I'm approaching something like Corkscrew's 3500-foot gain in just over 3 miles. The problem is I'll get going in deliberate granny-gear, then my mind will wander (or my mouth starts flapping) and soon I realize I'm going too fast and my legs are burning. John and Bob P both noticed this and commented about it during the hike. John can drop into 1st gear and go on seemingly forever. Maybe some day I'll be able to as well, if I can ever discipline my pace. The last, really steep 1500 feet of gain on Corkscrew came with a number of 20-second rest stops, which royally pissed me off. Some day I'll learn. Maybe.
We stopped at the keyhole below the summit for about a half hour. Jim, Tom and Harlan had re-joined us by that point and there were a number of great photo ops as they climbed to the top of the window and posed every which way for shots. Jim, of course, insisted on my getting a pic of him doing the Gator Chomp up there. Not long after that we were all on the summit eating lunch, taking photos and just generally having a blast. Bob R managed to position his camera for a timed group shot, which is in his Flckr album of the hike. There was a wonderful sense of camaraderie on the summit that day, and it made the hike that much more special. The only disappointment was that someone had absconded with the summit register and box (or thrown it off the side).
Another sidebar: this particular hike took a toll on Chris. It was a little tougher than she might have anticipated, and she hit a wall about 1500 feet below the summit. She did, however, persevere and got a standing O when she topped out. She showed a great deal of resiliency and determination in summitting, and maybe learned a little something about herself. Kudos Chris! Just the beginning!
After about a half hour enjoying the experience and views on the summit, we headed down, taking a different route to exit at the drainage to the north of Corkscrew. It was time for my downhill-racer persona to materialize, and I really enjoyed scooting down that mountain, scree-ski and all. We eventually all met up at the cars and enjoyed a nice, celebratory brew (or two) before parting ways. Bob had to return to Reno, and Jim and Tom headed back home to Lake Isabella and Ridgecrest respectively. Laura, Chris and Harlan would camp one more night with us at Texas Spring.
John's patient (and tedious) backwoods fire-building skills granted us a blazing campfire with the wood that we had trouble igniting two nights before - or it may have been the big Duraflame that Harlan used. Laura, Harlan, Chris, John and I enjoyed a hilarious evening around the campfire, toasting anything that moved and rolling with laughter at John's stream-of-consciousness chatter that a few strong Porters seemed to generate. We laughed so hard it hurt. By the time we rolled into our tents, I felt it had been the best all-around day I had ever spent in the mountains. A fun hike, great scenery, beautiful weather, all shared with a wonderful group of like-minded people - most of whom had a significant BAL by day's end!
Harlan had to leave us the next morning, taking a quick detour to climb Death Valley Buttes (The Butts, as we called them). John and I planned to do the same the next day. We hung out at the campsite till about noon, BSing some more, then we saddled up and drove to Panamint Springs for a nice lunch. Laura and Chris then headed for their respective homes while John and I continued on to Lone Pine. We each had something to pass along to Doug (Jim, be sure to have Doug show you my gift), and managed to catch him at the Hostel, where we grabbed a shower and began to feel human again. Doug invited us to dinner at Seasons with he and Earlene, so we capped the day with another memorable experience. John and I were whipped after dinner and the thought of the drive back to Furnace Creek was not very appealing, so Doug set us up at the Hostel overnight which was greatly appreciated. That would have been a long drive in the dark at the end of a long day. Thank you Doug!
The next day we scooted back to DV and headed straight for Death Valley Buttes. I couldn't find any detail on this climb on the internet, other than some brief SummitPost stuff, but it was something that looked interesting. Why they're called buttes is beyond me, as they are a couple of knife-edge peaks rising from the desert floor in the foreground of Corkscrew Peak, linked by a saddle. The only description I could find was that it was steep scree-hiking up to the Middle Butte, then some exposed climbing to the Upper Butte summit. That was exactly what it was, and it was a blast!. Neither John nor I are climbers of any consequence, but we both got some pretty good pucker-factor class 3 experience under our belts on this baby. Being a knife-edge ridge all the way, there are few choices on route, and some sections are two hands, two feet and a long way down less than a foot away. Bob Pickering keeps telling me I need some good class 3 experience. Bob, got it . . .
On the summit, John turned to me and said "Uh . . . that down-climb might be a bit sketchy." I agreed, but it had to be done. Slow and steady, we'd make it. We found Harlan's name in the summit register from the day before, but very few others. The register - a small spiral notebook - went back to 2006 and was not even half-full. Very few people seem to climb these buttes, and it beats me as to why. They're fantastic! What got our attention was an entry by Bob Burd, of all people, indicating he had belayed someone on the Upper Butte. That impending down-climb now seemed just a bit more serious to us.
After a half hour enjoying the view of Corkscrew to the north and Badwater to the south, we headed down. We were a bit apprehensive about the down-climb, but we took our time and ensured we had good contact points and balance. We kept waiting for a section to give us problems, but it never happened and things went very smoothly. Even the section we dubbed the "Mini-E-ledge" (about 20 feet of narrow rock ledge, with a long fall on one side and a sheer wall on the other) went without a hiccup - although my wife will have a cow when she sees the photos. The "scary" part was over before we knew it. Who knows, maybe the MR is in our future! High-fives and beer awaited us at the finish, and we agreed that this was the most enjoyable peak of the trip, from a challenge standpoint. If anyone heads up there in the near future, that impressive, gravity-defying cairn on the Upper Butte summit is my personal handiwork . . .
A nice little sand storm brewed up when we got back to camp - the exact same thing that happened to me the last night of my last hiking trip to DV - so John's DV experience went up another notch. Having learned my lesson during my previous tent-in-a-sandstorm fun, I slept in the rental vehicle. John laughed at me that night. He wasn't laughing the next morning.
So that's it. Our Death Valley 2011 TR. Had a blast and enjoyed great company. John, you're a fine hiking and camping partner (especially after a few beers), and I'm really glad you chose to give this a whirl. I bet it's not your last winter trip to DV! I especially appreciate the time committed (and distance driven) by Laura, Bob P, Chris, Jim and Tom to join us on this little adventure. Doug, your hospitality was superb and we're grateful for it. Laura, the moose-antler head gear you brought for me to pass on to Brianne was a real winner - she loved it! The people were as fun and intriguing as the mountains, and made the trip very special. Can't wait for the summer - and the Sierra!
Photos up soon. Got lots to go through!
We flew to Vegas together on 3/2 and before nightfall had our camp set up at Texas Springs in Death Valley. The next morning we headed for the charcoal kilns and the Wildrose Peak trailhead. We were geared up with snow boots, full gaiters and micro-spikes in case the snow got deep as we went above 9000 feet. As it turned out, we were able to handle the snow in just boots, so the gaiters and spikes stayed in our packs. The last mile to the summit the snow was fairly deep, at least to my Georgia sensibilities (6-8 inches), and we had to search for the trail at times. John has more experience in snow than I do, so a running joke began with him referring to it as "patchy" and me seeing it as "pretty damn heavy".
As we were coming from the east with zero acclimation for 9000 feet, we took it slow and steady, topping out on the summit about noon. We were almost immediately joined by two women, Carla and Sheila from Massachusetts and Oregon, who were right behind us. As best as we could tell, we were the only four on the mountain that day - we encountered no one else all day long. The four of us had lunch on the summit and enjoyed the crystal clear, stunning views of Badwater and Mt. Charleston to the east and the Inyos and snowy Sierra to the west. I spotted Bob R and Kevin R in the summit register, which was neat.
The following day, we were joined at our campsite by Laura Molnar (MooseTracks), Chris Sistrunk (SoCalGirl), Jim Freeland (SierraGator) and Harlan Stockman (not on either Whitney board, but a member of SummitPost - a very strong climber and wonderful guy). Jim's presence was a nice surprise. I had not seen him since finally meeting him at the Portal last summer, but we've been Facebook friends since and have sparred good-naturedly all winter about SEC football (the Bulldogs and Gators are bitter rivals, for those of you unfamiliar with that particular dynamic - another testament to the power of the mountains to bring people together). Chris has also been a FB friend for quite a while, so it was great being able to finally meet her in person. One helluva sense of humor! John was finally able to meet Jim and Chris. He had met Laura during the Kent Ashcraft memorial hike and cookout a few years back, so they were finally reunited! Chris had come up from San Diego, Harlan from Las Vegas, Laura from Bishop and Jim from Lake Isabella - there were quite a few miles driven (or flown) to make this little party happen!
Sidebar: Joe Quillan (quillansculpture) was originally slated to join us for this weekend, but honey-dos apparently got in the way. Joe, we missed you - and you missed a great time!
The next morning we all headed for Corkscrew Peak to meet Tom Brown (tomcat_rc) and Bob Pickering. The group gathering this day was primarily the result of a Facebook chat Laura and I had a few weeks back, and Tom's presence was also arranged through a FB chat. John is not a member of FB, but after this trip I expect to see him set up an account soon (be-friend him, folks - he's one helluva guy). It was great seeing Tomcat again! Bob Pickering and I had been corresponding by e-mail for quite a while, and it was a pleasure to finally meet him in person. He drove from Reno to join us, and I appreciated that greatly - especially since the next day was his wife's birthday and he had to turn right around and drive back to Reno after the hike. Bob surprised me by sporting a Georgia Bulldogs shirt for the hike, which confused the hell out of John, who was wearing his Georgia Tech gear. Add Jim's signature Florida Gators cap, and we had quite an interesting group with four of us outfitted in southern college football attire! Did I mention something about the power of the mountains overcoming other obstacles? Laura just shook her head .
As we were gearing up, we were surprised when Bob Rockwell arrived, along with Dave Gillanders and Arold Green. Sheer coincidence, but it was great meeting Bob R, fresh off his Kilimanjaro summit last month. I've really enjoyed the narratives that Bob has made available (in particular, his first Whitney summit story, his Denali experience, and his race to the Whitney summit against the younger ultra-marathoners), and it was an honor to finally shake his hand.
Our two groups headed across the desert towards Corkscrew, but between adding layers, removing layers, stopping for photos, pacing, etc., we were soon spread out into several groups. Jim, Harlan and Tom wanted to tag Little Corkscrew first so they went to the left while the rest of us bore to the right. The weather was great and it was a very enjoyable morning.
After about 2000 feet of gain, my legs were feeling a bit fatigued, especially after Wildrose two days prior. I have a problem in approaching western gains in that I have a naturally quick hiking pace. That doesn't present too much of a problem here in the south where a hike is typically an up-down-up-down-up-down kind of thing: gain 1000 feet, lose 400, gain 500, lose 300, etc. The consistent uphills of the west can't be replicated here locally, so I try to consciously maintain a durable pace when I'm approaching something like Corkscrew's 3500-foot gain in just over 3 miles. The problem is I'll get going in deliberate granny-gear, then my mind will wander (or my mouth starts flapping) and soon I realize I'm going too fast and my legs are burning. John and Bob P both noticed this and commented about it during the hike. John can drop into 1st gear and go on seemingly forever. Maybe some day I'll be able to as well, if I can ever discipline my pace. The last, really steep 1500 feet of gain on Corkscrew came with a number of 20-second rest stops, which royally pissed me off. Some day I'll learn. Maybe.
We stopped at the keyhole below the summit for about a half hour. Jim, Tom and Harlan had re-joined us by that point and there were a number of great photo ops as they climbed to the top of the window and posed every which way for shots. Jim, of course, insisted on my getting a pic of him doing the Gator Chomp up there. Not long after that we were all on the summit eating lunch, taking photos and just generally having a blast. Bob R managed to position his camera for a timed group shot, which is in his Flckr album of the hike. There was a wonderful sense of camaraderie on the summit that day, and it made the hike that much more special. The only disappointment was that someone had absconded with the summit register and box (or thrown it off the side).
Another sidebar: this particular hike took a toll on Chris. It was a little tougher than she might have anticipated, and she hit a wall about 1500 feet below the summit. She did, however, persevere and got a standing O when she topped out. She showed a great deal of resiliency and determination in summitting, and maybe learned a little something about herself. Kudos Chris! Just the beginning!
After about a half hour enjoying the experience and views on the summit, we headed down, taking a different route to exit at the drainage to the north of Corkscrew. It was time for my downhill-racer persona to materialize, and I really enjoyed scooting down that mountain, scree-ski and all. We eventually all met up at the cars and enjoyed a nice, celebratory brew (or two) before parting ways. Bob had to return to Reno, and Jim and Tom headed back home to Lake Isabella and Ridgecrest respectively. Laura, Chris and Harlan would camp one more night with us at Texas Spring.
John's patient (and tedious) backwoods fire-building skills granted us a blazing campfire with the wood that we had trouble igniting two nights before - or it may have been the big Duraflame that Harlan used. Laura, Harlan, Chris, John and I enjoyed a hilarious evening around the campfire, toasting anything that moved and rolling with laughter at John's stream-of-consciousness chatter that a few strong Porters seemed to generate. We laughed so hard it hurt. By the time we rolled into our tents, I felt it had been the best all-around day I had ever spent in the mountains. A fun hike, great scenery, beautiful weather, all shared with a wonderful group of like-minded people - most of whom had a significant BAL by day's end!
Harlan had to leave us the next morning, taking a quick detour to climb Death Valley Buttes (The Butts, as we called them). John and I planned to do the same the next day. We hung out at the campsite till about noon, BSing some more, then we saddled up and drove to Panamint Springs for a nice lunch. Laura and Chris then headed for their respective homes while John and I continued on to Lone Pine. We each had something to pass along to Doug (Jim, be sure to have Doug show you my gift), and managed to catch him at the Hostel, where we grabbed a shower and began to feel human again. Doug invited us to dinner at Seasons with he and Earlene, so we capped the day with another memorable experience. John and I were whipped after dinner and the thought of the drive back to Furnace Creek was not very appealing, so Doug set us up at the Hostel overnight which was greatly appreciated. That would have been a long drive in the dark at the end of a long day. Thank you Doug!
The next day we scooted back to DV and headed straight for Death Valley Buttes. I couldn't find any detail on this climb on the internet, other than some brief SummitPost stuff, but it was something that looked interesting. Why they're called buttes is beyond me, as they are a couple of knife-edge peaks rising from the desert floor in the foreground of Corkscrew Peak, linked by a saddle. The only description I could find was that it was steep scree-hiking up to the Middle Butte, then some exposed climbing to the Upper Butte summit. That was exactly what it was, and it was a blast!. Neither John nor I are climbers of any consequence, but we both got some pretty good pucker-factor class 3 experience under our belts on this baby. Being a knife-edge ridge all the way, there are few choices on route, and some sections are two hands, two feet and a long way down less than a foot away. Bob Pickering keeps telling me I need some good class 3 experience. Bob, got it . . .
On the summit, John turned to me and said "Uh . . . that down-climb might be a bit sketchy." I agreed, but it had to be done. Slow and steady, we'd make it. We found Harlan's name in the summit register from the day before, but very few others. The register - a small spiral notebook - went back to 2006 and was not even half-full. Very few people seem to climb these buttes, and it beats me as to why. They're fantastic! What got our attention was an entry by Bob Burd, of all people, indicating he had belayed someone on the Upper Butte. That impending down-climb now seemed just a bit more serious to us.
After a half hour enjoying the view of Corkscrew to the north and Badwater to the south, we headed down. We were a bit apprehensive about the down-climb, but we took our time and ensured we had good contact points and balance. We kept waiting for a section to give us problems, but it never happened and things went very smoothly. Even the section we dubbed the "Mini-E-ledge" (about 20 feet of narrow rock ledge, with a long fall on one side and a sheer wall on the other) went without a hiccup - although my wife will have a cow when she sees the photos. The "scary" part was over before we knew it. Who knows, maybe the MR is in our future! High-fives and beer awaited us at the finish, and we agreed that this was the most enjoyable peak of the trip, from a challenge standpoint. If anyone heads up there in the near future, that impressive, gravity-defying cairn on the Upper Butte summit is my personal handiwork . . .
A nice little sand storm brewed up when we got back to camp - the exact same thing that happened to me the last night of my last hiking trip to DV - so John's DV experience went up another notch. Having learned my lesson during my previous tent-in-a-sandstorm fun, I slept in the rental vehicle. John laughed at me that night. He wasn't laughing the next morning.
So that's it. Our Death Valley 2011 TR. Had a blast and enjoyed great company. John, you're a fine hiking and camping partner (especially after a few beers), and I'm really glad you chose to give this a whirl. I bet it's not your last winter trip to DV! I especially appreciate the time committed (and distance driven) by Laura, Bob P, Chris, Jim and Tom to join us on this little adventure. Doug, your hospitality was superb and we're grateful for it. Laura, the moose-antler head gear you brought for me to pass on to Brianne was a real winner - she loved it! The people were as fun and intriguing as the mountains, and made the trip very special. Can't wait for the summer - and the Sierra!
Photos up soon. Got lots to go through!