This was first posted by Bob R in 2005 (and updated in 2010), and it deserves to be posted again. So here it is...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
So, you want to climb the Mountaineer's Route in winter?
I always cringe when I read such questions as "I plan to do the Mountaineer's Route next week; do I need a rope or crampons?" Or "Should I go up a chute or take the traverse?" Or "What's the avalanche danger?" Or any of a number of similar questions, most of which have only subjective answers.
By my count I have climbed the MR over 30 times, a goodly number of them being winter ascents. So I know it pretty well.
I cannot say it more clearly than this: The MR in winter is a prime example of something that only experienced mountaineers, who are skilled in technical winter mountaineering, should undertake. Note that winter conditions can extend into spring, and even as late as July. You need both the background to know what to do and how to do it, and the breadth and depth of experience with ice ax, crampons, and snow and ice rope work, to be able to do it safely. You must have practiced self-arrests repetitively, and you need to have the maturity, wisdom, and foresight to back off or change your plan if you find yourself over your head. Most often the situation is not this severe, but you always need to be ready for it. Climbing the MR in summer will not prepare you, nor will winter hiking with the occasional use of crampons and ice ax under benign conditions.
One caveat: There is nothing wrong with going with someone—such as a reliable guide service or a qualified and responsible friend—who does have the skill, experience, and equipment, and who will make sure you do the right things and protect you if necessary.
The MR is much shorter than the trail, and that means it's much steeper. There have been many more people killed on the MR than the trail, even though it has far less activity. If one guesses the danger of death on the trail to be X, then it is my opinion that the danger of death on the MR is at least 20X and may be of the order of 100X.
Skilled winter mountaineers have been injured or have died there, but it is safe to say that far more relative novices have suffered those fates. I am not sitting in judgment on the two recent fatalities, because I do not know their mountaineering backgrounds. Perhaps they were fully qualified and just unlucky, but I read some things in the accounts that I would never, ever, do myself. In any case, these incidents are truly tragic, and—while we cannot have the depth of sorrow and loss of their families and friends—we who go into these mountains always feel a special anguish when a tragedy occurs in the high places we love so much.
Sometimes similar questions on this board are legitimately posed by people who do have the skills and experience, and they are simply trying to get data on current conditions. But if you are asking because you really don't know what the climb entails, you are cautioned to do easier winter mountain ascents first. A whole lot of them.
One immense problem with these message boards is that you usually don't know the background or qualifications of those who post. It goes both ways. If, to a question about the MR, someone gives an answer, how do you know to trust what they say? Moreover, how can someone give such advice when they don't know the background of the one asking the question in the first place?
These issues are also valid for summer ascents, but are particularly important for winter. Not only are accidents more likely in winter, but the outcome is apt to be far more serious.
Unfortunately, many people approach this climb too casually. If you think I am being an alarmist, catch me out there someday and I will tell you a few stories.
-----
I want to elaborate on the caveat expressed above. When I said it was OK to go with an experienced friend, I meant someone you know and are confident of their judgment. An AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) guide is ideal. Going with a person you don't know, but because of reputation you are sure is qualified, is usually still OK. That's because it's a compact situation: one leader and one follower.
When the numbers get bigger, all bets are off. An excellent climber is one thing; a climber who has the knowledge, skills, experience, and maturity to lead several novices safely up and back down is quite another. The operative word in this case is leadership; climbing ability is secondary.
If you're a novice thinking of signing on with a person of unknown leadership qualifications, you need to make sure your life insurance is up to date. And if you have experience and are thinking of taking on the responsibility for several strangers on a potentially deadly climb, you need to make sure your liability insurance is sufficient.
The Mountaineer's Route, especially in winter, is not a forgiving place. People, who are new to this type of climbing and must depend on others, need to choose those others very carefully.
