John:
I've only done the MR once a few years back and I wore approach shoes the whole way because I've been using Five-Ten Insight Shoes for years now and they can do the miles on the trail as well as stick to the rocks when scrambling. If there isn't any snow, I just wear the approach shoes for the entire time. If there is snow along the route, I'll wear the mountaineering boots until I reach the end of the snow and then switch to the approach shoes where the scrambling on dry rock begins. It means carrying an extra pair of shoes, but those sticky soles make a world of difference for me on Class 3/4 sections.
I'm not a technical climber and don't typically carry any protection; so I tend to stick to Class 3 and below, but occasionally I find myself on Class 4 section (these ratings are all very subjective). I love nice snow climbs and scrambles on dry rocks, but I also don't do mixed climbing - either snow or dry rocks for me - I don't mind if it's sections with snow and then section with dry rocks, but climbing rocks interlaced with ice or icy snow in my crampons is not for me.
There are other models of approach shoes made by Five-Ten that are supposed to be as good or better than the Insights, but sizing is an issue with Five-Tens; so I stick with the Insights because I know what size fits me. A size 8 in one model is nothing like a size 8 in another model eventhough they are made by the same company.
I've been looking for an approach shoe that is lighter than the Insight to carry in my pack for when I take both the mountaineering boots and the approach shoes. Recently, I ordered a pair of Evolve Cruisers - the second ones they sent fit, but I haven't had a chance to try them out yet. Looking at them, I don't think they will be as sticky as the Five-Tens but I'll wait to try them before passing judgement.
I think the sizing issues on some of the shoes have something to do with the European/US sizing translation.
Kathy
