No offense to the departed, and what Herzog accomplished was extraordinary, but his story is ... his story. If you believe what others say, he ruled this expedition with an iron fist, essentially imposed a gag order on others, and things were not as cohesive as he'd have the reader believe. See, e.g., http://www.amazon.com/True-Summit-Happened-Legendary-Annapurna/dp/0684867575 and http://forward.com/articles/164035/confronting-father-s-mountain-of-exaggerations/?p=all

I started Lionel Terray's Conquistadors of the Useless earlier this month but, unfortunately, have gotten a little stuck, and haven't made it to that part of the book yet.