World Class Alpine Climbers are a Ego Driven Lot , this is a Given. We have Had Many on Trips in the Past and Many Cannot Stand Waiting of Any Kind. They are always being held Up it seems , by weather or Other Inferior humans. This is a given as they are the Race horses of our Species. This coupled with the New Sherpa generation ( much different than the Old Generation that Hillary Knew) that Whole Villages Mind set , STATUS,and Financial Support is centered around Being a High Altitude Sherpa ... Their Version of a Highly Respected Position in their Society.... ie... " A Rock Star" . The " Constant Negotiations for Pay" is a favorite Past time for the Sherpas and they have Played it to the Hilt Every Time on Every Expedition for Decades Now. Many Expeditions not Either Knowing this or Not Planning for this Have Incurred Major EXTRA COSTS, DELAYS ,Disruptions, and Ultimate Shutting Down of the Whole Expedition and Even to the Point of them " Leaving Everything Brought up the Mountain From to Base Camp and on the Upper mountain.... Behind " , as the Sherpas simply Left. The new generation is Very sensitive about their Elevated Status as a High Altitude Sherpa and Not simply a Load Porter . They Expect to Be Totally Laid Out in Tech Gear and the Latest Apparel and Boots etc as well as Monetary rewards. Barter , Patience, disappointment, Cultural and Language differences Make" give and take the game"... sometimes every Morning... ask Chris Bonington. The Entire Group Can Strike at a Moments notice. The Big Mountains Have rock and ice fall Happening All the Time and add climbers above You and there you go. They boys Probably - Simply got Antsy Waiting and Without Loads and Using All the Already Fixed Ropes ... they were Super Men Speed Climbing Past the Hard working Fixed ropes Crew that had Been Hard at it for Hours that day. " Let Us Finish Our Job and you can use the Ropes to Be Rock Stars After" was not Part of the Mind Set. Classic " One EYEBROW " mentality Meets Labor Crew. Add High Altitude,Egos, Oxygen Deprivation, Headaches,Frozen Hands feet, gear , Biggest and Baddest Mountain Climbing Conditions on the Planet and Howling Ice , Snow and Freezing Gear.....It Happens Every Expedition Trip On Tiny and Massive scales Every Year. Perhaps that is why Messener and others went for the Scaled down Versions. It will Get Worse in the Future for sure . At least it was all defused by "the Lady " , thank God. Any way, the moral is Chose Wisely in All things and those Around You , or Else. Cheers Sierra Angler
