Thanks for tips guys. Sounds like I can expect some tough conditions. good news on the ice ax etc - trying to balance out weight for the flight over.
I guess another question would be - is it even worth the hike at this time of year? I should be back in the US next summer, so could pencil in a day hike then during down time. I don't mind a bit of snow and winds - but you gotta have the pay off!
Will keep you posted though - may check weather conditions on the 1st and make a decision on whether to get a permit then and there.