Four of us (two of us climb ice) went up the standard route but rapped down the final 400. We brought 2x30m 8mm twin ice ropes (a 60m would work), harnesses, belay devices and gear for anchors. We saw no others on the route that day although on our way to camp on the 3rd we ran into a group coming back from a successful summit via MR. They went up the standard final 400 but took the traverse on the way down.
We got to Iceberg Lake just after 6am (earlier would've been better) where we cramponed up. There are patches of snow below Iceberg but avoidable. Snow up main shoot was firm and made for an easy walk up to the Notch. The sun was hot and with little wind we were heavily sweating.
The first 100' or so until you get above the rock bands was the most technical section. There were a couple narrow sections of ice and snow we had to climb to get over the rock bands. Easy if you have a good head and ice climbing experience. We top belayed the one person in our party all the way up the final 400. Once above the bands we climbed the good snow to the top. The last 30' gets really steep.
We hung out on top in perfect weather and enjoyed the magnificent views. By the time we were ready to head down the sun was on the final 400 and it was getting soft. We chose to use the rap stations already setup to get down. A 60m or 2x30m just makes it to each station.
We walked and postholed down the main cute as it was too soft to control speed with an ice axe.
When we got down we went to the Store for hamburgers and fries--a must do to get the full Whitney experience. The burgers are huge! If you're lips are chapped or burned you won't be able to open wide enough to fit it in.
While at the Store we talked to Doug(?) about our experience. He told us 4 people have died doing the "easy" traverse from the notch this year. There is blue ice under the snow on the short 20' or so to get from the notch to the traverse. We were glad we didn't attempt that way.
After filling our bellies at the Store we drove to Badwater Basin to complete our trip.
