Our party of 2 made it up the East Buttress on Saturday, and descended the MR.
The "final 400" is still ice+snow, so our descent at 2:30PM worked well to take advantage of softer material for kicking+plunging before it set up again in the afternoon.
There a 3 100' raps down the MR gully currently -though you must carefully kick/pick down and over to the first one (yellow webbing).
100' down is the 2nd with blue webbing, and final rap is red webbing -such a colorful descent!
After that, you're in the notch to easier scrambling/glissading/skriing down to Iceberg Lake.
We had a great 15.5 hour daytrip from the campground.
Enjoy.
