Congrats on another summit Bob! Here's what I saw 26-28 April.
I went up the Mountaineer's route last week, starting Friday the 26th at noon, and camped at lower boy scout lake that evening. We encountered snow very quickly upon exiting the trees, where the trail meets the early opening of the valley headed up to LBSL. Temps were in the 60's, and it was pretty sloppy/wet snow, although not a lot of post-holes. We were able to cross some snow bridges over to the south side of the valley and remain on that side (opposite side of Ebersbacher ledges), and trek up the snow all the way to the lake. Once at the lake, there is a lot of exposure in the ice to access fresh water.
On Friday, we packed up camp and proceeded to head to upper boy scout lake. There was a small exposed area to access water at UBSL. We spent the afternoon relaxing and enjoying the nice weather, organizing our gear, and getting gouge from folks as they descended down. Early bedtime for a 12:30am wake-up call.
We were awake at 12:30am Sunday morning, and on the trail by 1:30am. We proceeded up to Iceberg Lake with no problems, and paused there for a break/meal. From there, up the chute in solid snow/some ice, crampons and axe were all we needed. Two climbers passed us about halfway up, and then we were subjected to a constant barrage of ice balls/pellets raining down on us for the remainder of the climb, with plenty of bruises to prove it. At about 6:30am, we were at the "final 400", and as Bob mentioned, a mix of rock/snow/minimal ice was encountered. We scrambled over the initial ledge/boulders, and opted to stay on the left side, making our way up the mountain. We had a mix of cams/nuts and a rope to use for some simul-climbing here (based on word given to us the day prior, and having done it before), but with the conditions we encountered, felt solid enough on the snow that we opted not to rope-up and start plugging gear in the wall. There was a really nice path wore into the snow leading up the last half of the final 400, and we made our way to it and ultimately used it to reach the summit.
The weather was in the 20's and very windy at the summit, and as a result, we opted to not spend time rigging rappels to make our way down the final 400. Instead, we took the "easy walkoff" (hate calling it that), and the snow conditions were great for the entire traverse. Making our way back down to Iceberg Lake, and ultimately Upper Boy Scout Lake, the snow started to get sloppy as the temps began to climb.
Finally, making our way down from Lower Boy Scout Lake to the main trail, the snow conditions went from bad to nasty - lots of thigh-high post holes, the snow bridges had all but vanished for crossing the river, and there were a couple of large slab/wet-slides coming down above us and making their way towards us as we trekked down the south side of the valley. Caution is really going to be required here as the temps warm up and continue to expose running water under the snow.
Recommendation is for folks to start considering the Ebersbacher ledges as snow continues to melt at a rapid pace near all of the willows and river. There were a few spots along our journey where small holes in the snow peered down 10 feet below you to running water - not a place you want to be when the snow finally gives way.
Overall, we had a great trip and took our time to enjoy the mountain, not the fastest group out there, but persistent. I love this route, always great to get out there and enjoy this mountain.
