Fantastic info. I am tentatively planning a trip next Summer on the Lemosha route, which I think is the western plateau route that someone wrote about. Really appreciate the leads re outfitters, routes, etc. Am thinking of using Ultimate Kilimanjaro, which is a U.S. based outfit that contracts with local company (I suspect Zara) and seems to charge only a minimal $200 markup, a bit more budget oriented than Mountain Madness. They focus on small, custom groups, though they do have some prescheduled 8-person group tours. Perhaps someone has experience with Ultimate Kilimanjaro or Zara?