> so I was thinking about hiking up there a little ways on Friday to check it out. I read you don't need a permit up until LBSL.
Great idea. A little acclimation hike and familiarize yourself with the part so you can do it while it may still be dark.
> The plan is to go up the first chute, seems the most popular, then from there up the notch or cut across.
Not sure what you mean by the "first chute". Sounds like you're talking about the area below the notch. It is really a single wide area. Most people start at Iceberg Lake and stay to the left of the main gully, and climb. At some point near the top, you may want to cross to the right. But it is all pretty straightforward.
Your chances for walk-in permits is good. You might try calling several times later in the week and snagging a released reservation so you can avoid the 2 PM crush. Also, being there at 11 AM might get you a released permit. Read box 6 of the "wilderness Permit Options" (link above on the left.)
As for water: I just dip and drink -- from the stream and all the lakes. Search for "60000" (Bob R's number of liters consumed, untreated). It might convince you about the water.
And finally, look at the MR links in the first paragraph of the Orientation Notes. There are maps and pictures to help you find the route.