I highly recommend Graham Ratcliffe's new Everest book:http://www.amazon.com/Day-Die-Everests-D...0322&sr=1-1
my review on the Amazon page is:
With satellites, computers, and internet, weather forecasting has improved since British explorers Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman planned their trips on the back of an envelope. In Everest 1938 Tilman said "Mountaineering, like farming, sailing, and all our most interesting activities, is a chancy business ruled largely by the weather." British climbing writer Geoffrey Winthrop Young in Mountain Craft cautioned that, "Those who ignore weather signs lose half their climbing days; those who deliberately disregard, or despise them, may lose their lives." Graham Ratcliffe's A Day To Die For is a superb sleuthing of weather details, and importantly who ignored them at all costs in 1996. He shows that while technology has improved common sense has not. His book is a must read. It should win the Boardman-Tasker Prize for Mountaineering Literature.