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May 15th MR Conditions
#58456 04/06/21 01:26 AM
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After two whole years of waiting and the last two summers just not working out, I've finally got a date snagged on May 15th for the MR. The only thing I wanna know is how are the conditions on the Final 400 around this time? Should we expect mostly dry rock? Would it be icy mixed climbing? Historically, is this an ok time to attempt the MR for the first time?

Last edited by climby_climber; 04/06/21 01:26 AM.
Re: May 15th MR Conditions
climby_climber #58457 04/06/21 08:50 AM
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Congratulations getting the permit!

Jim P climbed it last weekend. See the pics in the Current Conditions thread. His picture is below.

There can be storms dropping snow clear into June, so conditions could change. But I'd take ice axe and crampons, and expect to find ice, snow and dry rock. If there's a report of conditions immediately before you go, you could be more sure, but otherwise, go prepared for everything.


[Linked Image]

Re: May 15th MR Conditions
Steve C #58458 04/06/21 02:37 PM
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Thanks Steve!

Is there a thread which gives me more info about the best line to take up the final 400? Also I’m planning on taking pictures with me so we don’t miss any important turns (especially on the e-ledges). Is there any chance I could find that somewhere or if you could PM me that?

Re: May 15th MR Conditions
climby_climber #58459 04/06/21 08:47 PM
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On the Final400, it's pretty much follow your instinct, because there are so many variations. Just pick your route as you go, look around, and decide what is best. If I were going, I'd try to look out for any rocks covered with black ice -- there can be some. If looking up from the bottom is too intimidating, take the traverse (aka the "Easy Walk-off"), but beware, the first 20 yards beyond the start of the Final400 can be deadly if it is covered with hard snow and ice. Otherwise, it truly is easy.

There is a post listed in the "Reference" forum -- "Important Whitney Links", and within that at the top, Mountaineers Route info and links Some of the links no longer exist, but the ones still there are definitely helpful.

Re: May 15th MR Conditions
Steve C #58460 04/07/21 04:55 AM
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Writing specifically about the E-ledges, I found the three YouTube clips linked below--and I believe among the links in the resource Steve C highlighted--very helpful. I am pretty sure that the owner, Gary, is a frequent poster here in this forum, too.

[video:youtube]https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ebersbacher+ledges+gary[/video]


Re: May 15th MR Conditions
climby_climber #58461 04/07/21 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by climby_climber
Thanks Steve!

Is there a thread which gives me more info about the best line to take up the final 400? Also I’m planning on taking pictures with me so we don’t miss any important turns (especially on the e-ledges). Is there any chance I could find that somewhere or if you could PM me that?

1) Final 400 navigation is pretty straightforward. Studying an exact line probably not worthwhile. After the initial move into the final 400 (in my view the crux of the route) just look for class 3 moves. If you start to feel any exposure, you're off route. I attached a picture below of the start of the Final 400. The first few moves are a few feet to the climbers left of the snowpatch on the lower right.
2) E-Ledges are pretty obvious. The most difficult part for a first timer is finding them. Download a gpx into your phone.

[Linked Image]

Re: May 15th MR Conditions
BFR #58462 04/07/21 08:12 PM
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BFR: That picture has amazing detail. What model camera did you use to take it?

Re: May 15th MR Conditions
Steve C #58463 04/08/21 06:29 AM
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iPhone =)

Re: May 15th MR Conditions
BFR #58464 04/08/21 08:22 AM
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This will almost certainly make me sound old, but I think it is so weird that it is now completely normal for someone to stand at the base of of the Final 400 and use their "phone" to take a high resolution photo. Who would have ever predicted that the MR, phones, and photography would every overlap. How cool and amazing.

Last edited by Goose; 04/08/21 08:22 AM.
Re: May 15th MR Conditions
Goose #58465 04/08/21 03:55 PM
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Ha! I’ve been extraordinarily remiss in checking this site the past year. The first time I do in months,I see my E-Ledge YouTube videos linked. Hilarious! They’re much easier than many make them out to be, at least in dry conditions.

Steve and gang, hope everyone is well. The COVID travel shut-down killed a trip to DV for my daughter and I last April, which was a bummer. My wife and I get our 2nd Pfizer shot next week, so maybe a Cali trip will be in the offing before the summer is over.

Re: May 15th MR Conditions
Bulldog34 #58466 04/08/21 06:08 PM
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HI Gary, I might try to meet you if you come out. I'm starting a full JMT 6/11 southbound. TKR is doing great, but bad ankle could mess things up.

Re: May 15th MR Conditions
Goose #58467 04/08/21 09:03 PM
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Miss you, Gary! Let me know when you'll be here!


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