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fit2climb, John JDS, Select your Orga, sgt.squiggly
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Original Post (Thread Starter)
Old Army Pass Conditions #43226 06/22/2015 3:09 AM
by Bulldog34
Any current beta on Army Pass? I understand NAP is mostly clear, but I'd prefer to go over OAP if it's melted out. Planning for Langley in mid-July.
Liked Replies
Re: Old Army Pass Conditions #59603 May 19th a 11:34 PM
by fit2climb
I'm headed up there this weekend to backpack into Miter Basin w/Langley climb out of Upper Soldier Lake. From my experiences in past years, NAP will most likely have snow/cornice the last hundred feet or so to the pass. If I recall, I did manage to avoid the cornice and ice on NAP - but I would bring crampons/Ice axe just in case. I watched a YouTube video of a hiker going to Cottonwood Lake #4 last week and OAP had a lot of snow on the north face making it pretty dicey to hike the trail. I've done OAP when we had a very large snow year and I just took the direct route to the pass in the snow/ice using mountaineer tools. If you're going to Langley soon, I'd just take NAP. OAP trail won't be clear of snow until early June. I'll report the conditions later next week when I get back.
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Re: Old Army Pass Conditions #59604 May 20th a 03:22 PM
by 805_backpacker
I was there 5/14. Trail conditions are beautiful, HOWEVER, the last 50 - 100 vertical feet of NAP is a snow and ice field. Slip on that you are finito. We did not have an ice axe and were uncomfortable with the idea of attempting with only poles and microspikes with 30+lb packs. Went back down and over to CWL#3. Saw lots of people coming from and going to CWL#4 and #5, not sure if they were going/coming from OAP. I cant imagine OAP being any MORE passable than NAP. If you are comfortable with what I described, then you can get over NAP with little problem. Be safe.
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Re: Old Army Pass Conditions #59621 May 25th a 05:17 AM
by fit2climb
Went up to Langley on May 23, 2022

NAP is passible. Early morning hard snow the last 30-40 vertical feet from top of NAP turning to sloshy snow around 11am. I used crampons on the ascent but not on the way down. No snow to Langley. Pleasant temps in the day, but cold frigid nights.

OAP is NOT passible. Treacherous conditions at the last switchback where I am presuming the fatality occurred.

I document all this on YouTube for anyone interested.

Hope this helps!
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Re: Old Army Pass Conditions #59607 May 21st a 02:00 AM
by BFR
This is really a shame. For those reading this, if you have limited experience in snow, and are considering Langley, please do New Army Pass. It may require an extra few miles, but OAP is just not worth it for a lot of the folks who want to climb Langley.
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Re: Old Army Pass Conditions #43274 Jun 23rd a 11:17 PM
by Bulldog34
I got a response from Halfdomer Homer on the WPS board - he hiked Langley 6/20 and reported the top of OAP still heavy with snow, and likely corniced. I've got 3 weeks before my hike, so that may be enough time for most of it to melt, but if you're going soon be advised. NAP is the best route now, even with the additional gain on the return.
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