Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Whitney reality check: hike planned for late next week

Even when hiking your route in mid-spring, there are only a handful of places that require an axe.

Coming from Kearsarge, the first would be the south notch on Forester. Hitting the west side switchbacks from Guitar, an axe is nice but not critical. Once you get to the MMWT junction, an axe moves to the 'better to have in hand than not' for the 4 miles round/trip to/from the peak. And then there is the Chute.

So, you lug an axe that is used maybe 3 times, yet those 3 times are critical. It's a must have item that is rarely used. By the time you go, perhaps only the Chute would still require an axe. So, here's the question: what's the difference between using an axe 3 times vs 1 time? My answer would be: not much, so suck it up and carry the axe just like (almost) everybody else does earlier in the season. (Unless you hear the cables are open on your start date.)

I would say that you won't need spikes, primarily because at this point, there are so many boot tracks on the PCT/JMT. If the only time you use an axe is on the Chute, then you don't wear crampons/spikes on the descent anyway. Btw, this is true for either glissading or plunge stepping.

The last issue is learning how to use an axe. Waiting for the eye rolls here, but watch some videos. Then, while you're on your trip, make sure you practice self-belay, self-arrest (and maybe some glissading) on snow patches/fields each day (if possible). Getting in some practice should give you some sense of handling.

Actually, this is where spikes could be useful, because they will help you gain a few hundred feet before you descend. There are great snow fields on both sides of Forester that start right above some of the higher camp spots (eg the northside 11.2k meadow).

The thing about an axe and snow travel in general is: you have to learn sometime if you want to move in snow. Once you become more comfortable, you might actually find you prefer spring conditions and begin to search out other ways to apply those skills.

PS It's critical to have an axe with the proper shaft length. Too often, you'll see people with short handled ice climbing axes. That's not what's in play here - the axe you need is for self belay and arrest.

Basically, the rule of thumb is your hand - while hanging loosely by your side, should be able to cup the head/adze/axe, with the tip resting on the ground. Generally, this turns out to be 60-80cm - mine is 75cm.