Mt Whitney Zone Forums Trip Reports The Dog and Cat Death Valley TR 2011

Sorry to be the Spoil Sport/Devils Advocate, but even if it is easy, things can go wrong.

Weather Related Climber Death STORM, FA... Cathedral Peak

When I hear Cathedral Peak this is one of the first things that pops into my mine. I was camping in LYV that night. While I was having a good time with others around the campfire what was happening to them? The weather was just a bit overcast. . . amazing how much difference a few miles can make

so everyone, go out, have fun, but be careful out there!

I didn't mean to hijack Gary's thread, but I figure I need to respond before his wife reads that report and forbids him to walk more than 100 yards from the trailhead again.

Peter Noble wasn't the first person to die on Cathedral Peak, and he probably won't be the last. Popular peaks like Whitney, Shasta, and Cathedral attract a lot of people. Too many of those people make serious mistakes, and a few of them pay the price.

Cathedral peak is a spectacular climb on excellent, relatively easy rock. It's was my first multi-pitch climb (with a guide). When I learned to lead, it was my first multi-pitch lead. It's fairly easy for a relative newbie to follow an experienced leader up this route. There is always a rope above the second, so a fall will cause more damage to your pride than your body.

It takes me 2-4 hours to do the climb with a partner. I only take new partners when the days are warm and long. I'll take good care of Gary. And I guarantee it'll be the most fun he's ever had with his pants on!

I have to ask... Do you guys already have a date set?

I might have to walk up the other side and meet you on the top.

Hey.....Is Gary "cheating" on me? Bob, I still have him for Whitney!

Steve:

Cathedral will be one of the days when Gary is here this summer. According to him, that'll be "mid-July, most likely." We haven't set a date. In fact, Gary hasn't committed to do it yet. Gary?


Joe:

Gary should have plenty of time for both. Cathedral isn't a terribly strenuous day. You just gave me a really perverse idea. With perfect weather and a pre-dawn start on Whitney, it might be possible to solo Cathedral the same day.

Our family plans at this point are to spend two weeks in the Eastern Sierra this July - the dates are not firm as I'm waiting to see if I get a hit on the lottery. If not, it will probably be the last two weeks of July. Joe, we're definitely doing Whitney with the family. That's the centerpiece of the trip, so no worries there (assuming we get our hands on a permit). Barb and Bri would be super-POed if that didn't happen.

The first few days we'll acclimate in Mammoth and get in some hikes in Yosemite, Whites, etc., then on down to Lone Pine to do Whitney. Best guess is that I'd be free to do other stuff the second week, which would likely be the last week of July - but again, nothing firm yet. Once the lottery is over in early April we'll be in a position to make our plans.

Gary, please tell Bri that I would like a Denver Omelete when I stop by the Portal Store late in July. This gives her ample notice to look up what the ingredients are and how to prepare it.

Me too! Me too!

I want in on some of this action.

You always do the Sierra in September/October John - are you changing your plans?

Ernie, if that's what it takes to get you to the Sierra at the same time we're there, consider it done!

Bob, you're a beast. MR doubles aren't enough for you. You scare the hell outta me.

This is an excellent article applying the devil's triangle of mishaps come together for a perfect storm of disaster: Late Start--Inadequately Dressed/Weather--Failure to Abort(only element missing was a navigation error).

I believe that location had very little to do with the fatality (it could have been any place or time with the elements of disaster firmly in motion)

No, Gary. This guy is a beast!

A contributing factor ( just one of many ), and one that IS specific to the location, is that the storm came from the west, the one direction they couldn't see as they were climbing. They didn't have a true hint of their problems until they topped out and could see to the west.

Quoteth the incident report:

"THE WEATHER SURPRISE: Hiding a storm behind a mountain is one of Mother Nature's standard tricks."

That's right. That is one of Mother Nature's STANDARD TRICKS. There is nothing unique about Cathedral Peak here. If you climb any mountain from the east, you won't see the storm coming from the west. However, you can see what's to the west of Cathedral Peak before you start up. On Whitney, the eastern approach to the Palisades, and many other climbs, you have no way to see what's about to get you before it happens.

Ok, I need to"Engage brain before posting" it's not location specific and is a general climbing/hiking gotcha!

Photo album finally complete (after consolidating and sequencing my photos with John's). 500-plus photos reduced to less than 130. You can view it here .

Nice photos, Gary. I'll try to ensure that you get more photos with lots of exposure in July.

Gary:

If Bob is going to take you up Cathedral this summer, let me know if you want to get out for a day for a little pre trip preparation. In an afternoon we should be able to get you ready to roll (sort of).

Kent

Kent, I wondered how long it would take you to notice that TR! I'm up for that, and so is John. We were talking this week about looking around the southern Appalachians for some moderate climbing opportunities. We both enjoyed the experience and are ready for more. You've definitely got the cred in technical climbing, bro, so just let us know when you'll be up this way!