Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Recommendations for new peaks

Hi All,
So, I've managed to get to the top of Mt. Whitney twice this summer, and am now thinking about next summer. Not that I do not enjoy Mt. Whitney, but I am wondering about other options. If you were going to recommend peaks to climb, on one day hikes, what would they be?
Cotton Wood Lakes to Langley?
Whitney Portal to Russell?
What are your favorites??????????

Or, what about more technical climbs? East Face/Buttress of Whitney? Any favorites?

Your suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks!

Nothing else to see or do here. Just keep moving...

White mt is a day hike and has some very unique scenery! Its also one of California's 14k peaks!

Langley is a nice and beautiful hike semi-comparable to the main Whitney trail. I think it's nicer and the views are better though.

After you've done the MR, Mt Russell would be a nice progression, as would Middle Palisade. MP is a tougher day hike than the MR though. You've been warned. :) Start early. If you're up for it, tackle Williamson or Tyndall or Sill. Again, very tough day hikes, and better done as a backpacking trip. Based on your time on the MR, you'll need to get in better shape for every thing but Russell.

If you're interested in hikes other than 14ers, try Cloudripper or Agassiz in the Palisades. They are nice scrambles with great views. Mt Lyell, Dana, Conness, etc. in Yosemite...too much to name.

Don't take this the wrong way John, but the MR is [u]NOTHING[/u] like the East Buttress. Unless you have a friend who has done these types of climbs or hire a guide, forget about it until you've put in some time rock climbing. Best case scenario, you'll be eating humble pie. Try a 5.7 route at a little local rock wall (not the climbing gym) and see what a Class 5 climb is like. It's nice reading others' trip reports about some gnarly route/climb they did, but those guys put in a lot of effort and time before they were able to do what they do. I say everyone I know can, and encourage them to go up something like the MR, but when you get into the Class 5 or even Class 4 territory, things aren't as straightforward as Class 3 and things can go wrong very, very quickly and easily.

I have not done many peaks, but when you take alternate routes, a mountain takes on a fresh new perspective. Great example would be Langley via Old Army versus Tuttle Creek.

The Palisades area is my favorite, with North Palisade as my favorite climb so far, but my mind changes all the time. Great looking range. My suggestion would be to try Russell or Middle Palisade. You'll find the exposure much worse than the MR even though all three are rated Class 3. Take a rock climbing course to see your comfort level and whether you want to put in the effort before thinking about the Class 5 routes. Also, look beyond the day hikes and the experience and views will open up further.

My humble $.02.

Just browse through a copy of Secor and let your imagination be your guide.

There are Sierra peaks that are much more interesting than Whitney, but perhaps more challenging.

John, since the east side is more remote for you, more accessible peaks would include Cathedral and Dana in Yosemite, Alta in Sequoia. They're all good day hikes.

And there is always Mt Shasta.

+1 for Shasta... It is my favorite mountain to climb just because it sits pretty much all by itself and you feel that you can see for hundreds of miles in every direction.

For more technical stuff, Mt. Conness West Ridge in Yosemite was a great climb (5.6)

Monday evening routine: grab the SEKI and Yosemite topos, pour a glass of wine, pull Secor off the shelf, open summitpost.org and Bob Burd's Sierra Travels on the computer.

No offense, John, but you need to be a lot more specific in what you're looking for. From walk-ups to technical climbs, trails to cross-country, there is almost no limit to what's available out there. There are so many places I haven't been yet it almost drives me insane for want to be wandering out out there.

Bob is a tremendous resource, but take his grades on climbs with a grain of salt, often adding at least 1/2 a grade because the guy easily scrambles up to mid-5th class.

<see my signature line>

Thanks for the great suggestions.

Hopefully I can manage three trips to the Sierra's next summer, so am thinking about three different agendas. Of course weather will influence the timing of the trips:

I. I'm thinking about a taking a week/ten days to hike 4 peaks:
Mt. Dana - en-route from Bay Area to east side of Sierra's
Spend night at Mammoth
Hike White Mountain - Good warm up for more strenuous hikes, but still at high altitude
Spend night at Horseshoe Meadows
Perhaps a day off?
Hike Mt. Langley via Old Army Pass
One or two days off?
Hike Mt. Russell
This only takes 6/7 days and 5/7 nights, but I may find more "day offs" necessary, so will plan on the 7/10 days.

II. Perhaps a couple of more technical climbs. These will depend on how much outside climbing experience I can gain between now and then. Last week I was in contact with Sierra Mountaineering International about doing the East Buttress (this weekend actually), but just did not have enough time to get organized, and honestly speaking the prospect of spending two nights at Iceberg Lake is not so appealing to me. I just prefer hot and cold running water, and a bed to sleep on. So, I'm considering which more technical routes might be suited for me, and that do not require nights spent on the trail. I think a climb like the East Buttress is within my skill level, but of course this does not take into account the possibility of an "Oh Shit" moment when confronted with the exposure. So, only time/opportunity will tell. But again, I would hope to be able to string two or more together for a single trip. This would also depend on either friends with lots of experience with "Trad" climbing, or scheduling with Guides.

III. Another seven to ten day trip incorporating 4 or so peaks. Right now I'm thinking about the Palisades/Yosemite area, but need more investigation, and perhaps a copy of R. J. Secor's The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails, with a glass or two of wine.

Thanks again

Haven't done Russell, but I like your other choices! We're kind of in similar boats on this, I think.

Mt. Hoffman, on the way to Dana, is a great hike with phenomenal views.

Dana is a great day hike, but it is a little tougher than White, in my opinion. (Did it for the first time in 2012, trip report here .) White is walk up a rocky jeep road, while Dana is use trails that get pretty steep and rocky toward the summit pyramid. The only thing that makes White potentially tougher is the altitude.

I'd hate to do White and miss out on the Ancient Bristlecone forest right before the White TH. I think you might find White a little boring.

Langley is superb (did it first time in 2012, see trip report here .)

If it was me, with your time frame, I would do (1) Hoffman, (2) Dana, and (3) Langley. Good acclimatization plan, less driving (more direct route), great views. Not technical, though, in less you make it so.

Saw Shasta mentioned above too. Different type of experience (see report here). Gotta say, for a relative newbie like myself (first 14'er back in 2010, first mountaineering experience in 2011), Shasta takes it to a different level in terms of strenuousness and technical ability. Hardest climb I've done yet. Beautiful views but some real tedium on the climb. Not really a day hike (though it is often done that way by locals and skiers). Wouldn't really combine it with anything else (except maybe Lassen or Brokeoff Mountain on the way north, or maybe visit to Castle Crags State Park).

P.S. For a good training/conditioning peak that is more local, you might check out Cone Peak, south of Big Sur, in the Ventana Wilderness. I think it is about 20 miles or so round trip (backpacking camp 5 miles if one likes), with 5000-plus feet of gain. http://www.summitpost.org/cone-peak/150519. Can't beat the views up and down the coast...assuming you're not socked in!

P.S.S. If you have a choice between a day off at Cottonwood Lakes TH (i.e. Horeshoe Meadow), and at Cottonwood Lakes, I would hike in and take the day at Cottonwood Lakes. It is an easy hike into the Lakes...almost a day of rest itself. Then you can spend a day fishing or exploring the basins below the ridges (maybe hike over to Arc Lake, etc).

Know what, John? So do I. But... getting the right (lightweight) equipment, and trying it, ...getting used to it, learning what works... It opens up entirely new opportunities!

I know it is a hassle, and a whole new level of advance planning and preparation. But you really should try it. I don't think you would be disappointed.

Three words.

Rock. Creek. Lodge.

Would you be willing to recommend the best trail for hiking Mt. Shasta?

Depends on season, and what you are looking for (snow, glacier practice, skiing, etc), and your skill and experience level, and your comfort with exposure, trail finding, crampons, scree, glaciers, etc.

The "easiest" is usually the avalanche gulch route from bunny flat TH specifically in June and July (at least in a normal year), conditions permitting. It can also be the most crowded.

If you don't have good snow skills, you may want to consider a guided trek. Three outfitters have permits to guide on Shasta. Guided group trips cost maybe 300-700 dollars (1-3 nights) and include snow skills.

If you have snow skills, then the Fifth Season, a store in Shasta, is a great source of advice and info. They have a website too. They can provide season- and skill-appropriate advice.

One time, I started on Shasta from the end of the road beyond Bunny Flat -- from the old ski bowl. That place provides a good spot to spend the night by the car to help acclimate, and starts 600' higher than BF. We went up the old ski bowl, then crossed over the ridge to the west a little below Helen Lake. Then we camped at Helen Lake.

It is always a zoo at Helen Lake -- lots of overnighters.

On Shasta, best time is late May and June. (Watch the weather!) Don't go in August -- too much snow is melted out, leaving an unpleasant rough rock climb and descent. When I tried it in August, all we could see from the summit was the tip of Mt Lassen. Everything else was hidden in forest fire smoke.

Crampons and ice axe use are the best on Shasta, and the glissade down to Helen Lake (sit on your butt and slide) is really fun.

Especially when there is no snow.

Just one more suggestion:

Since you live fairly close to Yosemite, consider taking the Yosemite School of Mountaineering School basic rock climbing course. It lasts about one day, and will give you a good idea what is involved in technical climbing.

http://www.yosemitepark.com/rock-climbing.aspx

Hi Bob,
Excellent suggestion. If I do not get a chance to do some outside climbing with friends I will certainly do that.
Thanks,
John

Hey John,

Some other peaks nearby I'd recommend include:

Boundary Peak (great remote hiking)
White Mountain (wild, desolate scenery with Bristlecones also)
Mount Dana (better in the snow)
Telescope Peak (you'll probably be alone the whole day)

Also, Mount Gould (see my recent trip report below)

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=12412&parmuser=nyker&cpgm=tripuser

Or, you can come to NY and hit the Adirondacks 46ers!