Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion The Highest Brawl In World History

A brawl broke out at 23,000 feet on Mount Everest.

"The Sherpas said that the reason they attacked the climbers was because they had knocked ice down on a Sherpa below. As it stands no Sherpa has come forward to show any injury. Furthermore on an ice face getting hit by chunks of ice is a very natural occurrence. The climbers believe that the lead Sherpa was tired and cold and felt that his pride had been damaged as the three climbers were moving unroped and much faster to the side of him."

More here.

At that altitude i think most people are too busy breathing to get into a fight...

Here is another report from an on the scene witness:

http://www.explorersweb.com/offsite/?source=http%3A%2F%2Fbeckyrippel.blogspot.com%2F2013%2F04%2Flow-moral-at-ebc.html&lang=en

Apparently, they have "kissed and made up"...

http://www.explorersweb.com/offsite/?source=http%3A%2F%2Ffeedproxy.google.com%2F%7Er%2FTheBlogOnAlanarnettecom%2F%7E3%2F04O9drIyR5E%2F&lang=en

I am very surprised to hear that such an even-keeled guy, Ueli Steck, would be involved in this kind of melee. Hopefully we'll hear the Sherpas' side of things soon.

Here is the latest report, including the Sherpa's viewpoint:

www.explorersweb.com: Everest 2013: The Sherpas Viewpoint

Apparently, the three European climbers, who were acting independently, decided to ignore the Sherpa's requests not to climb above or near the rope fixing operation. The Europeans then stepped over the fixed line the Sherpa's were installing, angering the Sherpa's. After the Sherpa's descended back to Camp 2, Ueli decided to continue fixing the line the Sherpa's had abandoned.

Several points:

The European climbers disregarded the safety of the Sherpa team. One report indicates that ice was dislodged by the Europeans, which struck one of the Sherpa's below. There is a lesson for MWMR climbers here: be careful not to create a situation where accidentally dislodged rock will strike climbers below.

The Sherpa's were doing their job, following instructions and agreed upon directions by all the expeditions...except apparently, by the three European climbers. Ueli's decision to continue fixing the lines, the Sherpa's paid job, probably angered the Sherpa's even more.

Ego generated anger on the part of Moro really stirred the pot at Camp 2.

The Sherpa's have no ego involvement in climbing any Himalayan mountain; they work and guide in order to provide financial income for their families. That is the only reason they risk their lives to guide and prep routes on Everest, so that ambitious climbers can say "they" climbed Everest. Otherwise, the Sherpa people would not set foot on those peaks.

Rock or icefall coming from animate or inanimate activity above you is a serious matter. Just ask Alex MacIntyre:

MacIntyre was cruelly struck down in his prime by a single stone which hit him square on the head while he was climbing on Annapurna.

one of my favorite books
The Shishapangma Expedition, Doug Scott & Alex MacIntyre

I heard a different perspective of this incident on NPR today, as always there's another side to the story. Here's a link to a phone interview with one of the climbers involved. These independent climbers aren't part of the commercial expeditions, they climb without the ropes that the Sherpas were fixing and apparently weren't aware of the Sherpas request to not climb that day while they set rope and set up camp for the commercial expeditions. Sounds like a simple misunderstanding may have boiled up some buried animosity.

Leaves me with the idea that the Sherpas might be getting frustrated with the westerners with all their high tech toys but still relying on them so much. Seems understandable if that's the case.

Audio link to interview

I'll bet books will be written about this incident.

Listening to the NPR interview (link posted by "SierraNevada"), and also reading the Everest 2013: The Sherpas Viewpoint from explorersweb (link posted by Bob West), this part provided from the explorersweb article is telling:



If the above quoted text is true, it sounds like Simone Moro went "postal" when the fixing team confronted or tried to stop the "elite team" of climbers (Ueli Steck, Simone Moro, Jonathan Griffith).

There will be many interpretations of what occurred. It appears to me that it grew out of lack of communication between, and assumed expectations by, the various parties.

Links to a couple more interesting reports on this drama. As Steve wrote, it appears from these accounts like Moro lost his temper. It probably didn't help that the elite climbers finished laying ropes up to Camp 3 after the Sherpa went back down. It must have been very intense.

Initial Report with Update

Interview with Simon Moro

Intense is right. The big expeditions had an agreement with the Sherpa to leave them alone while fixing the rope. The Sherpa struggled with getting the ropes fixed, then the 3 dudes crammed into the top belay point - must have been frustrating. Then a Sherpa mob formed. Steck goes on record that Moro did not propose a fight though:

http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adv...ecks-Story.html

Sherpa resentment toward 'luxury climbers' is certainly understandable. In any sport and most human endeavors the glory only goes to the chosen ones, not those who labor in their support. Resentment no doubt exists. But an attack like this is beyond the pale.

3 world-class speed climbers not needing corporate/management company-hired Sherpas pass and anger them. Apparently hoping to molify the situation the three actually helped place the Sherpas' rope for them after the Sherpas got angry and left. It is unclear how the ice dislodged. The lead Sherpa is said to be young and relatively inexperienced. Moro has always had a good relationship with Sherpas, built a school for Sherpas, and has always defended and spoken highly of them.

Whatever led up to it, nothing justifies a gang attack of over 100 Sherpas, some swinging an ice ax, screaming that they are 'going to kill' arguably three of the best high altitude climbers in the world. I understand the three were only saved because a American female climber, knowing the Sherpas would be reluctant to attack a woman, threw herself in front of them.

A full inquiry is certainly warranted.

A modification to Hanlon's Razor, where "stupidity" is replaced by "inexperience" is in order?

Saved by Melissa Arnot A very impressive climber with an equally impressive resume.

For what it is worth, in Nepal, and particularly in the Khumbu region, the focus of discussion that I have heard (primarily among Sherpa owners of lodges and clients) is not about the brawl that occurred, but about the fact that the dispute was successfully mediated with government intervention. I can imagine that this remains very sensitive in EBC, but outside of EBC, from what I have seen, people were disturbed about what occurred but then moved on.

I believe that bilingual Russian and bad English (was it translated by Google?) blog by Denis Urubko provides the most sensible explanation of what has happened there. Unlike many other sources Denis' blog is less than 100% politically correct and as a result easier to understand:
http://urubko.blogspot.ca/2013/05/khumbu-wars.html

However we need to understand that Denis is a professional mountaineer and as a result he is not willing to tell us everything he knows. So I would like to complement Denis' blog with my own conspiracy theory.

Recently I have not heard anything about money negotiations between Sherpas and commercial expeditions. It's understandable because both parties would want to keep general public in the dark. However from books I read many years ago I remember a few stories when delays caused by bad weather or climbing accidents were used by Sherpas as tools to negotiate additional money for them.

So it seems to me that Lead Sherpa used that "Stepping over ropes” incident as an excuse for work stoppage. He sent a team of 17 Sherpas down to cause an additional delay with intent to blame Ueli Steck, Simone Moro and Jon Griffith for creation of unsafe work conditions. He just wanted to have a better bargaining position.

At this point Steck and Moro did not have a lot of options.
- Had they done nothing they would have been blamed by leaders of commercial expeditions for this delay and their additional expenses.
- So they fixed the ropes and as a result spoiled planned negotiations between Sirdar and commercial expeditions.
As a result many Sherpas were angry not because of unsafe work conditions but because Steck and Moro essentially "stolen their money" by fixing remaining ropes on that day. It's not about egos or single bad Sherpa. It's about money.

Sirdar has acquired his higher paying position not because of his climbing skills but because of his connections to Nepal bureaucrats and his purported ability to control Sherpas. So he behaved like a longshoremen trade union boss in old movies.

Machine translation: malt liquors = porters.

An interesting but difficult read.

World Class Alpine Climbers are a Ego Driven Lot , this is a Given. We have Had Many on Trips in the Past and Many Cannot Stand Waiting of Any Kind. They are always being held Up it seems , by weather or Other Inferior humans. This is a given as they are the Race horses of our Species. This coupled with the New Sherpa generation ( much different than the Old Generation that Hillary Knew) that Whole Villages Mind set , STATUS,and Financial Support is centered around Being a High Altitude Sherpa ... Their Version of a Highly Respected Position in their Society.... ie... " A Rock Star" . The " Constant Negotiations for Pay" is a favorite Past time for the Sherpas and they have Played it to the Hilt Every Time on Every Expedition for Decades Now. Many Expeditions not Either Knowing this or Not Planning for this Have Incurred Major EXTRA COSTS, DELAYS ,Disruptions, and Ultimate Shutting Down of the Whole Expedition and Even to the Point of them " Leaving Everything Brought up the Mountain From to Base Camp and on the Upper mountain.... Behind " , as the Sherpas simply Left. The new generation is Very sensitive about their Elevated Status as a High Altitude Sherpa and Not simply a Load Porter . They Expect to Be Totally Laid Out in Tech Gear and the Latest Apparel and Boots etc as well as Monetary rewards. Barter , Patience, disappointment, Cultural and Language differences Make" give and take the game"... sometimes every Morning... ask Chris Bonington. The Entire Group Can Strike at a Moments notice. The Big Mountains Have rock and ice fall Happening All the Time and add climbers above You and there you go. They boys Probably - Simply got Antsy Waiting and Without Loads and Using All the Already Fixed Ropes ... they were Super Men Speed Climbing Past the Hard working Fixed ropes Crew that had Been Hard at it for Hours that day. " Let Us Finish Our Job and you can use the Ropes to Be Rock Stars After" was not Part of the Mind Set. Classic " One EYEBROW " mentality Meets Labor Crew. Add High Altitude,Egos, Oxygen Deprivation, Headaches,Frozen Hands feet, gear , Biggest and Baddest Mountain Climbing Conditions on the Planet and Howling Ice , Snow and Freezing Gear.....It Happens Every Expedition Trip On Tiny and Massive scales Every Year. Perhaps that is why Messener and others went for the Scaled down Versions. It will Get Worse in the Future for sure . At least it was all defused by "the Lady " , thank God. Any way, the moral is Chose Wisely in All things and those Around You , or Else. Cheers Sierra Angler