Forest fires, temporary trail closures, and daunting transportation logistics, all threatened this trip, yet it turned out to be one of the best 7 days ever.
The sunrises, sunsets, and generally changing light conditions were enthralling (particularly at Precipice Lake and on the backside of Whitney). Another huge highlight: the folks I met on the trail quickly gelled into a warm and fun trail family. I did this solo (a first in so many respects), and there were definite advantages, including easier to meet folks, and more flexibility to choose or change my schedule, which I did a lot, largely due to the unsettled weather. Finishing the trip with breakfast with Doug and some of my trail family at the Portal, and dinner later that day with Doug, Earlene, Maura, and Ava, made this trip special beyond any expectations. The best ending possible to the best trip possible.
Some quick stats: 70+ miles hiked over 7 days (all but 3 miles hiked in six days though). My altimeter says 16,673 feet of cumulative gain, but I think that the weather changes may have confused it -- probably closer to 15,000 feet.
Click
here to see the "Un-Report" -- the mildly tongue-in-cheek report I did of the logistics aspect of an HST thru hike. Total trip mileage, per my "Un-report," including transport to THs and back, was just shy of 1000 miles, but I didn't drive a single inch of that -- all mass transit of every form except boats.
Onto the pictures....
Day 1 (August 30): 11 miles, Crescent Meadow to Bearpaw campground
Hiking toward the Great Western Divide. The folks ahead of me ended up becoming the core of my trail family -- really sweet guys from the U.K. via Australia -- we finished together.
Day 2 (August 31): 7 miles to Precipice Lake
The original plan had been to hike to Big Arroyo. But, as I left Hamilton Lake for Precipice, I became concerned about the clouds building over the Kaweah Gap. And, I have been intrigued about Precipice Lake since seeking Laura's (Moosetracks) amazing photo from a year or so ago. So, I ended up camping at Precipice instead, which meant that I was treated to the changing colors of the lake. That evening, there was indeed a heck of a (silent) light show over the Kaweah Gap, although I gather the actual lightning was hitting Lone Pine 30-40 miles away.
Amazing trail work leading up to Lone Pine Creek crossing.
Even more amazing trail work leading up to Precipice Lake.
Afternoon light (overcast) at Precipice Lake
Evening light at Precipice Lake (the sunset was on the anemic side due to smoke in the distance, but still some nice reflected color)
Day 3 (September 1): 17.8 miles to Kern Hot Springs via Moraine Lake
On Laura's and Hiking Jim's advice, I was interested in spending a night at Kern Hot Springs. However, I'd lost some mileage due to my decision not to cross the gap the day before. This made for an epic (for me) day, both exhausting and exhilarating.
Morning light at Precipice Lake
Climbing up to the Kaweah Gap (looking back from whence I came)
Big Arroyo
Ferns
Unsettled weather, climbing up the North Wall of the Big Arroyo
Mt. Kaweah and Sky Parlour Meadow
Fire still burning on the switchbacks descending to the Kern Trench from the Chagoopah Plateau. Mostly, there were just smoldering logs, but I did see this tree with open flame. This section of the HSt had been closed for a few days prior to my trip.
At last! Kern Hot Springs! Aaahhhhh!
Day 4 (September 2): 7.5 miles to Junction Meadow
This was a pretty, and easy, hike up Kern Canyon. Almost a rest day.
Day 5 (September 3): 10 miles to campsite above Timberline Lake (below Guitar Lake)
The weather was still unsettled, and getting more dramatic. This was a day of rain and hail, with thunder in the distance.
Looking West toward Colby Pass on the ascent of Wallace Creek
Backside of Whitney, after the storm cleared
This deer was not too shy to do her business in plain view
Reflected sunset
Day 6 (September 4): 13 miles to Whitney Summit and down to Outpost Camp
I had planned originally to get a late start and sleep on the summit of Whitney (and potentially had recruited one of my trail family to that endeavor). However, when I peeked out of my tent at 2:30 a.m. and saw clouds, I figured I was better off getting, out, and over as soon as possible, rather than risk being marooned on the West side of Whitney by lightning strikes along the ridge. The lightning never materialized on Day 6(despite the threatening weather), but I was treated to a sunrise high on Whitney, so once again, all was for the best.
Sunrise on Whitney
Sunrise from a "window"
Hitchcock Lakes at sunrise
Looking south
Summit approach
Clouds on the summit. It was REALLY COLD (it got warmer and clearer later). I was warm enough hiking in two layers of merino wool, plus a down sweater, plus a wind/rain jacket. Folks I saw with less were shivering.
An REI Adventures group makes their way up to the summit.
Starting to clear...
Cables were 100 percent ice free.
Consultation Lake was an impossible hue of blue. Simply lovely.
Day 7 (September 5): 3 miles to Portal.
Day 8 (September 6): the long ride(s) home.
Whitney gives a farewell light show.
