Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Dynamic Ropes for Giants

Hello WHA Folks,

I recently have taken more of an interest in technical climbing and I am soon to be in the market for a good dynamic rope (for the purpose of putting around on local canyons and crags [canyoneering and trad] with a hopeful future to do class IV and low class 5 Alpine Routes).

I am all for saving a few bucks, but there are a few items I will never opt for price over quality: boots, backpacks, and climbing gear. Any of those fail on you in the backcountry and you are most likely done-for.

Now I am right around 290 lbs (131kg) admittedly I can lose some weight but my lean-healthy weight still hovers between 240-260.

I am looking around at dynamic ropes and being an owner of a static-rope rappelling system (46m rated at 28.6kN on an ) I'm a little surprised at the (what seem to be) low ratings of 8.6-9.0 kN dynamic ropes (which are only UIAA approved for 80kg falls between 5-10 recurrences).

Considering my considerable weight (131kg as opposed to 80kg), I do fear that even a rating of 9.0 kN would be insufficient if someone like me took a whipper, or at the very least would wear the rope out rather fast with assorted rest breaks and rappels...

I'm curious to hear your thoughts on what type of rope would be ideal...

Ultimately I'd love to use a 9 lb bundle of 9.5 or 9.8 mm piece of dry-treated single rope as opposed to a 11-12 lb hunk of 10.8 mm rope, but I will err on the side of safety.

You might take a look at rope manufacturer's applications data like:
http://www.sterlingrope.com/media/document/techmanual.pdf
to get an idea of what the specs mean.

Static ropes are rated by minimum breaking strength. The impact force rating of dynamic ropes is a peak force generated by a specified fall. A dynamic rope is designed to minimize the peak impact force by stretching. The downside is that the rope will stretch more than a static rope at normal (non-fall) working weights, like your body weight if you hang to be lowered. The UIAA limits approved (dynamic) single rope to produce less than 12kN from a 80kg weight.

The number of falls rating attempts to reflect the energy absorption capacity of a rope's lifetime. Greater climber weight in use will burn through that faster, so more is better.

You can control peak forces on ropes to some extent by careful protection placement, having belayers experienced with dynamic belays and mechanical devices the absorb energy during falls. It is easier to suggest these things than to implement them well.

Also consider: http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/ropes.html

Dale B. Dalrymple