Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Whitney MR advice

Hi all,

I will be attempting the MR for the second time the middle of this June. I was unsuccessful on my first attempt mostly due to poor research on my part, and spending too much time way off trail, ultimately having to call it as I otherwise wouldn't be back before my trail note got sent out. I'd like to avoid repeating that. So I have a few questions if anyone could chime in....

The plan, as before, is a single day trip, up the MR, then using the easy walk off, and descending the Whitney trail. I would set off so I can hit the ledges just prior to sunrise. In an attempt to have a turn around time/point set, I'd like input on roughly how these times sound. I'm no land speed record breaker, as I typically average a 1000' an hour on the 14ers I've done. I can however fly down hill.

3-3.5hrs to LBSL
+1-1.5 to UBSL from LBSL
+1.5-2hrs to iceberg lake from UBSL
+2-2.5hrs from iceberg lake to the notch
+45min-1hr from the notch to the summit via walk off

About 5hrs down the Whitney trail.

Total to summit 9-10hrs, overall 14-16hrs.

Am I way off on anything, and if so what section?

Next, what advice can be offered when facing the chute? Tips, tricks? Stay left? What works generally for everyone? The chute is probably my biggest fear currently, as I didn't get that far last time.

Oh, also advice on navigating the ridge from UBSL to iceberg, and best routes.

I have crampons, but would an ice ax typically be recommended in mid June? (Last time was mid July) I know it's early to predict, but I'd rather have it in the car and not take it than vice verse if the general consensus is to bring it.

Lastly I suppose, any crazy things to take note of coming down the standard way? I'm doubting it, but better just ask.

A bit about my background- I lived for a couple years in the Denver area and have climbed 12 14ers out there. Although it's been about 2 years since my last one, I've never experienced serious altitude issues. I currently live at about 3000' and hope that'll help keep it that way. I've only ever tackled class 2 in CO, but was ready for class 3. However, that's a CO class 3, and you CA lunatics seem to underrate your mountains here I've also climbed as much as 5300' in a day and put in as far as about 14 miles. I know this will be a little more on both ends, but what are everyone's thoughts? Am I doomed lol?
And yes, I have a permit, and am versed on the parking debacle.
Thanks in advance!

Steve and a few others will likely provide better answers, but in the mean time I offer the following.

I guess there is no way to say for sure, but based on your 1000'/hour I would guess your times are conservative. I did the same route you are considering in 2012, and my times as follows:
2 hrs to LBSL
1.5 hrs to UBSL
1.5 hrs to iceberg Lake
3 hours to summit, via "final 400".
5 hours back to car via main trail, including a stop at S/B 22/23 for water.

I had previously hiked up to LBSL several times, so knew where I was going up to that point. I recommend you do this the day prior to your hike. This will help when you start in the dark, and is also good for acclimation.

These times going up included a couple of 20 minute breaks for snacks and water refill, and perhaps 15 minutes off route.

I would guess your time will be faster if you are able to stay on the route, and provided you are properly acclimated, and not suffering symptoms of altitude sickness.

Just for reference, the fastest known time going up is less than 2 hours, and roundtrip around 3 hours.

There could be snow in mid June, but suggest you simply watch trip reports for more current info as your time gets closer.

If there is still snow on the "easy walk off" I would personally prefer the final 400 (assumes a path clear of snow). A slip on the easy walk off would be painful.

Good luck. Post a trip report when you get back.

John

Thanks John. Sounds like my times were pretty dead on, short of about an extra hour I tacked on getting to LBSL. I think I recall getting there in about 2.5hrs actually last year, which included me taking almost 30 minutes finding my way onto the ledges. But as I got off trail leaving LBSL, I started messing up my times at that point.

Again, never really had any altitude issues in the past short of one day when I plowed through 4 14ers in an afternoon. Just spent too long up there I guess. I plan on hiking the 6 mile loop at the bristlecone pine forest again a day or two before to help me get used to +10k' activity.

And yeah, the FKT on this peak is mind boggling.

As for the easy walk off, it's got it's pros and cons I suppose, but I like having it available if the final 400 creeps me out too much. That's why I'll put the axe along...self arrest on the walk off if needed.

Still open for tips and tricks up the chute and around the class 3 ledges to iceberg if anyone has any!

Thanks again

I just have to comment on the ratings in California and Colorado. The terms “class 2” and “class 3” refer to the imperfect Sierra Club rating system, which includes the Yosemite Decimal System. (1, 2, 3, 4, 5.something.) This rating system originated in California. Thus, “class 2” and “class 3” refer to a California rating system. Over the years, the ratings in California have crept up, not down. When I was focusing on the Colorado 14ers, I found that Roach overrated a third of the routes. I climbed the entire “class 4” NE ridge on Capitol Peak in hiking boots without using my hands even once. The “class 4” summit block of Sunlight Peak? Another no-hands walk-up. It is Colorado climbers/authors that overrate routes, not California lunatics that underrate them. The Happy Face in your post suggests that you already knew that.

Now some quick comments on your planned trip:

The time you allow to get to LBSL seems a little long compared to your other times. I think that your LBSL time will be faster or all your other times will be a little slower. Overall, your estimates seem reasonable, based on your experience.

In June, a pair of moderately stiff mid-weight boots might be all you need. On the other hand, crampons and an axe might be essential. Ask again just before you go. The “easy walk off” may still have icy snow long after the “final 400” (immediately after the notch) is good climbing.

The catwalk/ramp that goes up the left side of the chute is usually the best way to go. The ramp eventually peters out, and you don’t want to go too high before heading for the main part of the chute. Much of the terrain between Iceberg Lake and the summit is rock that will demand your attention. With good route finding, you’ll climb a pleasant mix of class 2 and class 3 rock. The worst of the loose crap is between the top of the ramp and the notch. The easy walk off has some loose crap too.

Finally, downclimbing the Mountaineers’ Route should be faster than the endless trail. You can make that decision on the summit.

I've attempt the MR 3 times in the last couple of years so far making it only to Iceberg Lake. I intend to summit this summer. The "trail" leading to Iceberg Lake is not clear in places. As you near the "seeps" stay just below (30 yards or so) them. You'll probably see more than one trail heading in the right direction. Just past the second seep look up for some cairns and/or tracks. I found it a little hard to navigate but you can make it up to Iceberg Lake without experiencing any class 3 climbing. Although I did scramble up a steep rocky section but once up was able to direct my wife to an easier path.

Try to talk to Doug in the Portal Store for some info on going up the "chute". He was very helpful to me but I chose not to go that far because of an August snow storm. You can see in the first video the creek was flowing strongly.

My videos may provide some help

https://vimeo.com/103573626 ( at 12:00 I think we are at the 2nd seep where you go up to Iceberg Lake)

https://vimeo.com/132183843 (3:40 the Ebersbacher Ledges, 2 out of the 5 in my party chose to turn around at this point...11:45 just past the 2nd seep turning up towards Iceberg Lake, 12:35 zoom in on a cairn showing the way)

https://vimeo.com/101090290 Ebersbacher Ledges

I'd say the creek was flowing! Jeez! Thanks for the input and the videos were great. The view of the chute in your video from iceberg no longer looks intimidating at all...but it appears like the final 400 grew by a factor of 3. It's all in the perspective I suppose!

Do you know the way up to Clyde Meadows from LBSL? It becomes more clear on descent. As you pass the lake stay low near the vegetation by the lake. There's a stretch very near the lake where there is no trail, just climbing over big rocks. You'll soon pick up the "trail" as it climbs towards those BIG boulders up above that you aim for.

Have you studied the info on this page? http://www.whitneyzone.com/wz/ubbthreads.php/topics/1867#Post1867

Steve's videos are helpful. And the link
"MR, route from LBSL --> UBSL" gives good info and pics for the area as you pass LBSL

Thanks! That was super helpful. The link from LBSL to UBSL that punched you out to a web album was incredibly helpful. It showed pics and views I've never seen before, in particular navigating from UBSL to iceberg which was a concern. Great info!

One more thing - from that link "MR, route from LBSL --> UBSL" that you found very helpful, note the post just under the 2nd picture "Posted by Steve C, 08-14-08" click on "here" and study those pictures (you might want to print the ones with the red line showing the way). Especially note: Pic # 25 shows a hiker next to a pyramid shaped rock. Make sure you go this way after you pass those big boulders above LBSL. Pic # 35 has a red line showing the way through Clyde Meadows then heading above that cluster of trees on your way to Iceberg Lake. You do not need to go to UBSL.

(Edit - I reread your post. I guess you were talking about those pics. You've already found them.)

Yup, those are the ones, and I saved a few of them. Thanks again.