Originally Posted By: Newclimber
That trip report was a good read thanks Steve, however does leave me a little unclear on what a realistic turn around time might be considering earlier on in this thread we were about being back at being trail camp by 1.30. The 2 late summiters must not of passed trail camp until 5 or 6 and got back safely. What are your views. I have to say my hopes of getting to the top have diminished a fair bit since a 1pm return to trail camp was suggested.


Newclimber - Steve C and the others are definitely more qualified to answer your question but I'll offer my two cents. The reason for getting back to the chute as early as possible while returning from the summit is because the MT chute faces east. Once the sun goes beyond the Trail Crest ridge after noon, the chute is in the shade and the snow on it begins to firm up quite fast. This is dangerous while traversing down in case of intentional (for ex glissading) or unintentional falls as your ice axe and crampons may not be able to get a good bite.

Personally, the turnaround time from the summit I had set for myself was 2pm as I knew that I would have to get down only to the Trail Camp for the night since the tent was there. I was also okay with not glissading down the entire chute. Also, the weather at that time and the forecast for the next two days were very good so that was one less thing to worry about.

The two people who summitted after I did, they did fine but I would not have been comfortable in their position at all (3pm+ summit and 530pm for the chute, 8pm for Outpost). But they probably had a higher risk appetite and prior Whitney experience.