Our party of two made the trip up to Iceberg Lake on Friday, June 15th. We were headed up the chute to the notch by 4:30am the next day and the snow was great with crampons/axe at that time of the day. Once at the final 400', we took advantage of the protection already in place, and even saw two additional rap/anchor stations (yellow and orange I believe). Roping in made the ascent much more comfortable knowing we had the protection in case of a slip/fall, as the snow in the final 400 was pretty solid/icy. We should have brought two 30m ropes to rappel back down the same way we came up, as the single 30m rope we had was good to belay/ascend the route, but not to rappel back down to those same stations.
We used the "walk-off" route for our return and protected about 2/3 of the journey by setting our own webbing/anchors using the natural boulder fields along the route. That snow was still very firm with good purchase for the crampons at 10-11am, but was softening by the time we reached the notch, which would have made the journey a little more adventurous.
Snow was very sloppy coming back down the chute towards iceberg lake, lots of post-holing and sliding the whole way down.
We had a great time, first time for us summiting via that route, and will definitely do it again in the future. Happy to answer more questions if you have them.
Cheers,
Nick
