Yeah, Death Valley in winter - was considering that back in the 80s already when I had a few weeks off and really wanted to get out of Wisconsin in January, but I had really no clue about conditions. Probably a good thing it didn't work out, as I clearly was not very concerned about water, something I always had in abundance in the mountains I had been to before.
Death Valley in the winter is one of my favorite things to do - I try to get out there every year in late February or early March. It's just an amazing place - the air is crisp and clear (no Hades-haze like in the summer), the temps are 50s to 70s in the daytime, 30s to 40s at night, and the colors in the rock strata (that are typically hazed over in the summer) jump out at you like a kaliedoscope. Telescope and Wildrose peaks are covered in snow from about 8000 feet on up, so there's plenty of crampon work available if you want it. It's a completely different park in the winter than summer.
The downside is that it's not a backpacking park, even in winter. There are no long trails to speak of other than the Telescope and Wildrose Peaks hikes, and the water situation is still extreme. To backpack below 8000', you'd need to carry all your H2O, and there would go most of the fun. Also, I believe all of the natural springs in the park are reserved for wildlife use and are off-limits to humans. It's mostly a place where you have to set up camp (Texas Springs is my favorite) and do dayhikes. Most of the established trails in the park are up the alluvial fans, through a gazillion small canyons and fissures, to some high point or overlook.
There are some really great hikes in the more secluded areas of the park, but it takes 4WD and high-clearance to get to many of them. Being in a rental situation after flying in to Vegas, I've never had the vehicle to negotiate some of those roads. Someday I'll spring for a rental Jeep and get to those areas.
Strangely enough, the crowds in the park in the winter - the best weather - are significantly smaller than the summer - the worst weather - but I suppose that has to do with school dates and through-traffic patterns. Let's just say that you can absolutely find solitude for most of the day if you want it. The only big crowd-pleaser in the winter here is the early March wildflower show, which is definitely something to see.
Anywho, it's well worth the effort if you decide to give it a shot some day. Looking up at the night-time DV sky in winter is as impressive as anywhere I've ever been.
