I've put quite a few miles on sleds. As a recent transplant to the Eastern Sierra from New England, we often used sleds there for hiking daytrips where the first several miles were mostly flat, placing our daypacks (4-4,500c.i. typically), well-secured with bungies. Once we hit the steeps, the sleds would be stashed for the return trip. These sleds were beefed up kid's sleds, using similar techniques/materials as your reference lists (I didn't read it in its entirety, but it looked solid). For multi-day trips, typically into Baxter State Park in Maine, we used a sled usually sold to ice fisherman as in addition to our packs, we'd be packing in extra food, clothing and gear for a multi-day.
Regardless of which sled I used, both would be modified using similar techniques as your reference. You'd also need a repair kit w/tools. Vibration is often a factor, so Locktite and locking nuts are essential.
Sleds are notoriously tippy, so the best commercial ones have a fiberglass shell over the top - like a clam shell - so the sled will still go if it's on it side or even upside down. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to have a poorly balanced sled which tips over frequently, or to have crusty conditions which flip even a well-packed sled.
Sleds are great for flat/mostly flat or rolling terrain. They're not so great on constant, prolonged grades as the weight of them pushes/pulls continuously - there's no relief, as they don't have brakes. A few years ago I had the idea of using one to climb Shasta from Bunny Flats via AV Gulch as an overnight. My intent was to use the sled up to Lake Helen. I managed to make it to Horse Camp and began to have some doubts. Once I left Horse Camp, and began heading up the mild, but steady grades, I realized it would be far more work than slepping the pack on my back. So, I ditched my sled in the trees near Horse Camp, picking it up on my return the next afternoon.
I'd suggest you use this winter as a shakedown, and make several trips, preferably over terrain which has some prolonged steeps, and see for yourself what you might be getting into. My hunch is you'll see for yourself why you don't see people pulling their gear up mountain on sleds.
A few comments on your other gear:
Snowshoes - MSR Ascents are good, as are other brands like Tubbs and Atlas (now owned by the same company) - look for models rated as Backcountry or Expedition. I have a couple of pairs of Tubbs and a pair of Sherpas (no longer made), and recommend them highly. Buy snowshoes approx. 30" long - don't get 36" unless you're at least 6'8". Always carry a McGyver kit for repairing 'shoes - including tools.
Poles - Extremely useful if you're snowshoeing, even more so if you're dragging a sled. Get good ones, made by either Black Diamond or Leki. Most of the house brands of REI/EMS are made by Komperdell, which is a good pole for dayhikes, but not as durable as the other brands. Use the larger baskets - in New England I used the larger basket year-round, as in milder weather it helped flotation in mucky/muddy conditions.
Crampons - buy steel crampons, like a Grivel G10 or Black Diamond Contact Strap. Aluminum may save an ounce or two, but they don't hold up, nor grip, nearly as well as steel. If you get into a dicey situation, the last thing on your mind will be "Thank God I saved a couple of ounces on gear that may keep me alive".
Footwear - on a long trip like this, a double plastic boot may make sense, not so much for the cold as the ability to bring the inner boot into your tent/bag at night and help dry it out. They don't have to cost $600, either. My Scarpa Inverno's still run around $325, and they're often discounted. Am not sure if Koflach is still making boots, but their Degre and warmer Artis are also excellent boots.
Clothing - if you do lots of winter hiking/camping this winter, you'll sort out what works best for you.
Sleeping pads - use two when on snow, preferably a self-inflating and a closed foam. Some get by with one - always a tradeoff between comfort and weight.
Sleeping bag - a -20F down bag. Lots of choices - will cost $250 on up.
Those are some of the high points. I may update this later. Feel free to PM me also.
Last edited by KevinR; 12/02/10 12:05 PM.
