Last minute decided to drive up alone from LA Thurs night, motel 6 Mohave, 8am 6/23 Fri at the Interagency for walk-ins. None left, so returned 11am and scored an overnight permit. Began at Portal at 1pm, arrived at Trail Camp near 6pm. I'm a fairly experienced non-snow hiker/climber and somewhat minimalist.

--water crossings annoying but not a real issue. To save time I walked in croc type sandals all the way up to past Mirror lake

--past mirror lake people were going off trail on the snow to the left toward the Consultation (?) Lake side. I tried to stay on the original trail going right. Required some scrambling and a short snow traverse over steep terraine, but eventually got to Trail Camp probably similar or faster than the snow detour.

--whats with people leaving wag bags all over trail camp? Defeats the purpose.

--a constant low headache overnight is my kryptonite at high altitudes. So this trip was just a bit better than last year's one day effort, but not by much.

--began the chutes up 6am. I brought winter boots and compact crampons with no front teeth. No ice axe no poles. Steep scary, but I dont believe I was in danger, due to snow condition (see below re glissading). Just use the previous hiker's footsteps, step by step. I pickep up a broken hiking pole on the way up and it helped support my rests, but no fool should rely on it for actual safety. Like the axe: id prolly buy one, but for convenience in temp anchor rests as you plod up. The real safety should be in your sense of balance, and snow condition (ie Not icy).

--the last 30 feet feel vertical, but as in climbing, it means the steps/holds are better

--arrived at Trail Crest in about 110 mins.

--the next two miles to top are for me the toughest I've ever hikes. I think my body just shuts down. There was a snow patch near the end, but easily maneuvered. Top at 10am. Collapsed slept an hour. Saw lots of pct people fir whom the hike was an easy side trip.

--back at TC about 12:30pm. Ready to glissade. Here was a bit of chaos. One group of newbies with shiny gear clogged the ever deepening downchute for ages. One guy was scared and just couldnt continue. I and others had to bypass and traverse to use alternative lines down. I found that the butt down, cramponed boots approach was best for the conditions. When speed picked up, I jammed in my hiking stick with both hands for a little control. But the best control was putting out my arms against the walls of the chute. If the bottom were not clogged with ppl, there woulda been less concern to slow down.

--down in 20 mins. Packed up and descended to car ahead of a storm.

--my conclusions: a good pair of crampons needed. and ice axe would be nice but not necessary: the false confidence on gear without knowledge on usage, plus neglecting other conditions (snow condition, fitness, other ppl waiting to get down) makes it a wash.

--i would think the conditions i experienced would not last long, due to warmer weather and continued usage erosion of the snow chute area.

--lastly: i firgot to return the bear canister. Anyone know the Interagency mailing address? Seems they dont answer the phone.




Last edited by Climber Joe; 06/27/17 09:40 AM.