I stayed at trail camp on 30th and sumited on 1st with microspikes and ice axe. My advice: bring crampons,either buy or rent. With microspikes,I had to follow other people footprints and it was still difficult to support much of my body weight. When footprints were shallow or no footprints at all, I had to make footholds with ice axe adze, kicking with microspikes didn't do much benefit. It became exhausting rather quickly and I was prepared to bail out anytime, but that became a concern itself because rocks and boulders downhill — you have to watch out where you slide down. I was on my all fours most of time and made sure I was holding my ice axe firmly with each climb. I eventually climbed a bit the rock field and ate a bar while rested there for a long time.That seemed to give me enough strength to push over the last snow field. It took me 3 hours to climb the chute. The snow felt slushy already in the early morning and it will only get worse.
When you glissading down, remember to wear gloves and holding your ice axe tightly.
